Cladding bathroom!

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I'm doing a bathroom ( not my favourite job :rolleyes: ) and I will be cladding it all out, ceiling and walls, it's a small bathroom.

What I want to know is,
1. do i clad the ceiling out first.

2. what method of securing is best ie. ( they want it straight onto the original plasterboard on ceiling and walls :eek: I know don't get me started).

3. shall I fit toilet and basin after or before, I presume bath is deffo. after.

Any tips welcome, I've never done Cladding before.
TIA
 
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This is a Tiling Forum ;) Try asking on a "Cladding Forum" if you can find one, IMO it's God awful stuff.
 
I'm assuming you are getting paid for doing this work?

If you have to ask whether or not you fit the bath, basin and WC before or after then I think this change in career direction is not for you.
 
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To be a bit more positive; TBH I’ve no idea as I’ve never had the privilege of fitting the stuff but logic tells me start with the ceiling first, then the walls; is cladding light enough to be fixed to the ceiling? You may have to issue your customer with a hard had, certainly tiling a ceiling is a definite no, no for obvious reasons! As to how/what you fix it with, adhesive I would think but as to what type, probably best to check the manufacturers web site & go with their instructions of you’ll invalidate any product warranty.

When tiling, I always have a totally clear room if possible, tile then fit but I have worked with the bath in situ; you need to protect it well.
 
Thanks RichardC, I will manage , but as always I want to do a good job so I asked to see what tips or advice I could pickup.

It's not a career change , but I would like to know how to fit them properly .
 
I would be looking to use CT1 as adhesive especially on the ceiling. If you can test bond strength against the substrate then perhaps solvent free pink grip will suffice on the walls, you have to be careful what you use on these cladding panels as they can be very thin and the solvents in grip fill / pink grip can eat them.

Customers ask for some strange things, I did a bathroom renovation once with an aquamura shower enclosure, patched up existing tiles and then applied completly different tiles to a stud wall I built, coupled with an aquamura shelf incorporated into the wall.
 
I would be looking to use CT1 as adhesive especially on the ceiling. If you can test bond strength against the substrate then perhaps solvent free pink grip will suffice on the walls, you have to be careful what you use on these cladding panels as they can be very thin and the solvents in grip fill / pink grip can eat them.

Customers ask for some strange things, I did a bathroom renovation once with an aquamura shower enclosure, patched up existing tiles and then applied completly different tiles to a stud wall I built, coupled with an aquamura shelf incorporated into the wall.
I'ts a sign of the times, People are trying to save whatever they can.
And I seem to be getting them all :eek: :LOL:
The CT1 is very good stuff but expensive, They have already got some cheap silicone, I will deffo have to get sommat else for the ceiling.
 
Be aware that the bond strength of finish plaster (to any substrate) is just 20 kg/sqm (32 kg/sqm for unplastered plaster board) but that’s in the vertical plane; when tiling, I usually halve that at 45 degrees such as loft conversions/attic room ceilings. It depends on the panel weight your intending so check it first but using a pure adhesive bond directly overhead without mechanical fixings may be risking it; as I said, you may wish to include a hard hat within the contract price. :LOL:
 
I will be putting a few screws on the lip side to hold it aswell.

Don't make it sound like it's rocket science :LOL:

It's a labour of love so he can't complain if it falls down. :D

I think 1" screws into the plasterboard should be ok. ;)
 
Don't make it sound like it's rocket science :LOL:
Interesting comment :confused: ; felt guilty so was trying to be helpful, perhaps I shouldn’t have bothered. It isn’t rocket science (what trade is!) just training, knowledge, an understanding of the materials you’re working with & a good dose of common sense thrown in.

It's a labour of love so he can't complain if it falls down. :D
Hope that holds good when he’s lying in a hospital bed with severe concussion & a legal claim firm about to sue your 3rd party liability asre :LOL:

I think 1" screws into the plasterboard should be ok. ;)
If you need additional fixings for weight, screw through in to the joists, just screwing into PB won’t hold anything up. ;)
 
When he's in hospital I'll make sure i take him some lucozade. :LOL:

And yes The screw will be going into joists.
 
We'll I got most of it done today but have the ceiling still to do as the joits from ceiling to walls are that way, have'nt had any probs yet,,,

Not looking forward to the corners, I are'nt good at mitres and these are the curved type ons :p
 

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