Cloakroom toilet and sink replace

25 Oct 2008
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United Kingdom
Looking to replace a cloakroom toilet and sink and have some initial questions before I consider starting myself or getting in a pro. I'm reasonably handy and keen to learn, and would like to do myself if I can.

The existing:

For the toilet, it looks like the 90 deg connector is pushed into a length of black plastic waste pipe that is sealed with a cement collar into the waste in the floor.

1) would it be usual when changing the pan, to put in a new 90 deg connector or just keep existing?

It looks like it may be possible to put in a new one, but I'm a bit concerned there appears to be a small leak at the back already, between the black pipe and the cement collar.
I'm aware that sometimes in the floor it's a salt glazed ceramic pipe that is easy to crack if you try getting out the cement.
Hence after a bit of advice before I do anything!

On the sink,
There are no hoses with isolating valves etc already, so as I will be taking all the tiles off anyway, I can redo this bit of plumbing and replaster without trouble.
I was looking at the hoses on screw fix and there seem a lot to choose from! Some seem to come with isolation valves already, but they mention check valves too. Hoping for a bit of guidance.
2) any suggestion on hoses and Is a check valve essential to add on both hot and cold?

I noticed some DIY sheds do a cloakroom set with toilet and sink (at least BnQ and w*ckes) but they all seem quite different in terms of supplying mounting brackets, waste, taps, traps, flushing mechanism, filler valve etc!
3) any experience that these do the job or poor? any advice on a good place to source sanitary ware?

4) is it usually good practice to put new traps on? The existing bottle trap may be ok.

Thanks for any advice on these, or anything else I should be aware of from the pics!
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Personally I would use a new pan connector - same size - the labyrinth seals don't always like to be disturbed. As you say, that's a plastic waste pushed in to the salt glaze to get the correct diameter for the pan will pull out easily enough I think, but trying to break mortar out of the salt glaze collar will certainly break it!
As for the tap hoses, genuine copper with an isolator would be best, especially if this is a gravity supply system but if you want to go flexible, use WRAS approved gear and give the pipes an easy life with no tight bends or twists. Flexis with an isolator are as good as the non isolated ones.
The bottle trap will be fine, it may need a new washer between it and the sink outlet.....there's no guarantee that it will suit the new sink of course - you may need a telescopic one to prevent another hole in the wall.
Most new suites come with the required wastes but they may not be of the best quality and they may vanish from the with everything, you get what you pay for, and I'd look for a basin with an under slung cover to hide the trap and pipe work.
John :)
Agree with the above, Just to add that check valves aren't required on a normal basin/tap set up.
Thanks both for the good advice, clear and concise.
Much appreciated.
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Most welcome! One point, if the new basin has no pedestal, take good care to get a good fixing to the wall......some basins have just screws through the porcelain, some have a bracket that also fixes around the trap. Either way, there can be considerable leverage involved with the basin itself.
John :)
Everyone has their own way of doing things, but I replace toilets on those collars on a weekly basis.

I remove toilet, pull out 90 degree pan connecter, and smash the collar off from the inside outwards. This will reveal the drain in the floor. I then stick a Multikwik extension into the floor, you can then repair the floor with a bit of quick setting concrete around the multikwik and then self level the floor(optional), then fit toilet as normal, putting your 90 degree connector into the extension.

Gives a much cleaner finish and gets rid of the horrid looking collar.

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