Clogged IAC valve on a Carina

[madder]

Ok, so I'm starting a new thread cos I think the problem is different to the battery clamp. I've recently changed my positive battery terminal clamp after problems with the car not starting. The car starts perfectly now. But after about 5 minutes, if I'm not revving or if I'm slowing down in traffic, the engine cuts out. Radio and lights stay on so the battery seems ok. Once the car is driving for 10 minutes or so, the problem goes away completely and it drives fine again unless it's left alone for a few hours. If that happens, I usually have to go through the 10 minutes again. It's a Toyota Carina E Leanburn Sli.
I believe that the IAC valve is clogged. I have heard it's an expensive fix to have it replaced because of where it's located in the car. I'm not sure where it is which is half the problem. I don't know if it's easy to take it out and clean it.
The easiest solution from what I am hearing is to spray some carburetor cleaner into a hole in the Throttle valve which I'm told sits on top of the IAC valve. This, I'm told will help to clean the IAC valve and at the very least be a long term temporary solution to the problem.
I have absolutely no idea as to where I am supposed to spray the carburetor cleaning fluid, so I've attached a few pics of my car under the hood? Maybe someone can tell me where to spray the stuff exactly or any help and suggestions at all.
If any more specific pictures of the under hood are requested just let me know.
Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

Avoid spraying the carb cleaner directly into the throttle body - it won't really reach where it needs to be.
Start by removing the rubber pipe with the two clips. This will let you see into the throttle body itself. You should see a disc flap that opens when you twist the mechanism where thr throttle cable is.
The idle control valve (ICV) allows a small amount of air to bypass the throttle when it is shut, and its usually controlled by a stepper motor.
I suspect its right behind the left end of the rubber pipe - just inside the throttle body. An electrical connection should confirm this.
Usually we release them and then clean them with carb cleaner, but some ICV's are held in with tamperproof screws. I just don't know in your case!
John

 

[madder]

Avoid spraying the carb cleaner directly into the throttle body - it won't really reach where it needs to be.
Start by removing the rubber pipe with the two clips. This will let you see into the throttle body itself. You should see a disc flap that opens when you twist the mechanism where thr throttle cable is.
The idle control valve (ICV) allows a small amount of air to bypass the throttle when it is shut, and its usually controlled by a stepper motor.
I suspect its right behind the left end of the rubber pipe - just inside the throttle body. An electrical connection should confirm this.
Usually we release them and then clean them with carb cleaner, but some ICV's are held in with tamperproof screws. I just don't know in your case!
John

Thanks again John, but can you tell me which pipe to remove? Is it in any of the pics?

 

[Burnerman]

First big pic, mate - the plastic box behind the battery is the air cleaner, and its the convoluted rubber pipe that you remove, connecting the air cleaner to the throttle body.
Careful as you go with the ICV if you get that far - they are fragile and you may like to call in the troops if you are unsure!
Be lucky
John

 

[madder]

Someone told me previously that they're normally under the engine in Toyotas and that for that reason it was a big deal to replace the ICV valve and because of the work involved that it's pricey? Doesn't look pricey at all to me? Perhaps I could go to my local breakers yard and ask them to fit a 2nd hand clean one? Couldn't be very expensive could it?
I might have a look though. Thanks John

 

[Burnerman]

For the life of me I can't imagine why an ICV would be below the engine.....it has to be within the throttle body somewhere - although it could be beneath that, I suppose.
Why not google an image of an ICV, or even check You Tube for some sad person meddling with one?
John

 

[Mursal]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxArm-Ra-Qw

Hope this helps. Don't take it apart just spray the carb cleaner into it. As mentioned in the other thread, check all your small rubber vacuum pipes for leaks and cracks.

Keep in touch

 

[madder]

Picking up some carb cleaner spray from Halfords tomorrow and gonna spray it into the valve. Is there anywhere else that this carb cleaner is useful if sprayed? Can it help the engine in any other ways?

 

[madder]

Guys, I have been keeping something from you that I didn't think was relevant ....... until now.

For the last 5 years the check engine warning light has been on in this car. When it was first addressed, I was told that it was highly likely that the Leanburn 02 or Lambda Sensor was the problem. I was told that they were a known fault in the 97 Carina E Leanburn. I was also told that it was a very expensive fix(as not any 02 sensor would do) and that it wasn't crucual to the running of the car, nor was it a requirement to pass the National Car Test. And so I just decided to forget about it.
But after doing some research today, I think it could be relevant to this problem.

 

[Burnerman]

It could be, matey, and its true the general after market lambda sensors (£40) are no good for this car.
A general scan on your car would probably show up as a 'generic catalytic converter operating below threshold' so your decision is, do I replace the cat, the lambda sensor or both?? Believe me, I've been down this road many times before - replaced loads of lambda's, but only 3 cats to date.
However, if your car passes the MOT then the emissions have to be ok so I do think the fault is elsewhere.
The throttle body, and the ICV, needs to be really clean for them to be discounted as being a problem. I think any garage would see to these first before looking elsewhere.
John

 

[madder]

But John, could the CAT or the Lambda Sensor cause the brief engine stalling shorlty after startup? The car was only tested in May or June so it won't need another test until 2012, so either way I won't be spending big money on the CAT or Sensor just yet. Unless it could be causing the stall.

 

[Burnerman]

In a few words, I don't think either would cause the stalling. If it was a VW I'd be replacing the coolant sensor - the one that tells the ECU what temperature the car is at so the fuelling could be adjusted accordingly.
These always give problems!
Hence my comment about the clean throttle body and working ICV!
John

 

[Mursal]

In my opinion forget about the lambda sensor and the cat as the problem.

Did it pass the NCT with the engine light on?

 

[madder]

In my opinion forget about the lambda sensor and the cat as the problem.

Did it pass the NCT with the engine light on?

Yes, it passed 2 NCT tests in the last 4 years with the engine light on. So I'll just focus on spraying the ICV and Throttle Valve today and see what happens next! It might be this evening or tomorrow before I can give a proper report on whether ot not this has worked, but I'll be online most of the day if anyone has any further suggestions. Thanks.

 

[madder]

Should I be testing the car for fault codes or beeps? Does anyone know the procedure for that?
I presume I open the Diagnosis box, find a jump cable and attach it to 2 places in the box(but not sure where), and then start the engine and wait for beeping noises. And then I count the beeps and find the diagnosis?
Just another idea that I've been considering and researching.