Coalhouse / bog

Joined
15 Apr 2005
Messages
16,510
Reaction score
265
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
What would you do with this coalhouse?

House built 1910. The coalhouse used to be 2 rooms, but now one. Half has lath and plaster ceiling, all falling away and unstable.

I am having a new roof and gutters put on it - knocking down isnt an option due to the adjoining structure. The walls are solid double brick.

The aim is to have the washer and dryer in there - there is a water supply in there from the toilet (capped off), and the soil stack is about 4ft away.

The right hand door, as shown, works. Its a good door and im painting it.

I am wanting to block up the left hand door and vent - its an eyesore and serves no purpose. I want to do this with breeze blocks, and then apply a cement render to the whole thing, and paint it. Does this sound / look feasible?

Having never laid a brick in my life, I'm a little cautious, but I am quite handy when it comes to practical things like this. Any tips welcome though. Should I key the new blocks in with the old brickwork?

I would also like to render INSIDE - or would I be better off boarding it out, so I can hang things up easily? What should I do on the underside of the rafters? Plywood? I know moisture is the main issue.

And the floor - currently its a mix of self-leveling, chipping away, and cobbles underneath. What can I do with these? I'm thinking maybe pouring concrete over it, re-inforced of course, and shuttering at the doorway. Or would this just be stupid? :LOL:

Just after ideas really!

 
Sponsored Links
Whats on the other (house) side of the? Possible to knock through to make a rear 'porch'? Handy for leaving muddy boots and gardening/work clothes in, to avoid treading muck into the house.
Or same, but put a toilet back in there, accessible from inside the house. Downstairs loo, big selling/renting point.
 
Whats on the other (house) side of the? Possible to knock through to make a rear 'porch'? Handy for leaving muddy boots and gardening/work clothes in, to avoid treading muck into the house.
Or same, but put a toilet back in there, accessible from inside the house. Downstairs loo, big selling/renting point.
Appreciate the suggestions, but it would ruin the plan of the kitchen. TBH, people dont expect a downstairs loo in a house this age / size.

All I want it for is storage / laundry equipment (pipes will be lagged). I'm just after methods to make it presentable, inside and out, short of leveling it!! :LOL:
 
knocking down is indeed aviable option..it leaves you with a brick wall to one side of your garden.. good place to site the barbeque.. :)

I'd advise againt the washer and dryer in there, for a start it's not heated and likely damp in there. so not good for something metal with electronics in it.. , secondly you'd have to trudge out there in the snow and such to do the laundry..
 
Sponsored Links
Solid brick walls either need loads of ventilation or you need to construct a vapour-proof insulated lining and keep it heated. The big vent is probably keeping condensation away for you, expect condensation and mould if you just block it up.

Looking at it dispassionately, what you have there is a hole that is detracting rather than adding anything to the house. Judging by the brickwork between the white door and the house, I'm not convinced that it is even a 9" wall throughout, some parts (around the old coal hole) could be just 4". If you are going to replace the roof, re-do the floor and render the outside, I'd consider demolishing it and starting again to current regulations. I'd also consider a conservatory instead of another shed.

In the meantime, have a look at Celotex garage conversions for ideas if you keep the existing structure.
 
you'd have to trudge out there in the snow and such to do the laundry..

Steve's from Yorkshire, not sure that would bother him, his ma probably had him up a couple of hours before school operating the mangle in all weathers to earn his keep.
And he were grateful.



ah but, if the kitchen is already pokey then a seperate wash/drying area would be nice. Always confounds me why we wash our dirty socks n pants in the same room we store and prepare our meals.

Never mind the condensation problem, just insulate all round and stick a humidistat fan on that left hand wall.

I'd replace the vent bit to the left of the first door with a small window.
 
flatten it to the foundations and providing they are still sound, re-build with blockwork, insulate and raise the roof ( so that a knock through is at least possible in future, it's too low now compared to the window.. ) and render the outside..

something this size you could probably do with the "brickey" tool..
 
Steve, except for some useful comments from Duke as I call him, all you have been told is a load of rubbish. You have made it quite clear what you want to do, so lets see if we can help you out. From the photos the roof , ridge and flashings all look in good nick, and I would leave well alone unless leaking badly.
You have got approx 1.080mm from the right hand style of the black door frame to to the left hand style of the vent opening. I would put a UVPCwindow in there either 900mm or 1.050 deep. Pull the one and half brick pier down in between the doors. Tooth the brickwork out left hand side of black door getting rid of batt and three quarter. See if you can find a bricklayer to give you a Saturday mornings work to brick up the opening and build new pier. You to have everything ready for him. You will then finish up with one and half brick pier, window, one and half brick pier, door and three brick pier. There is nothing wrong with the brickwork fellow that a bit of pointing will not put right and doing it this way except for the price of window will work out cheaper than blocking up and render. If you don’t want window, then don’t put one in, but knock dowen centre pier and brick up to white door frame.
Ceiling, rip down throw some insulation in, rattle some plaster board up, tape or skim.
Walls if all one brick dot, dab insulated plasterboard, tape or skim. If half brick, stud, insulate, tack, tape or skim
Floor, nice to have lifted cobbles, poly dpc and concrete fair float finish. If you do not want to lift cobbles, poly and 75mm concrete floor with 10mm down ballast. Will only give you storey height of approx 2.100. You will not need any rod in concrete.
old un
 
Steve, except for some useful comments from Duke as I call him, all you have been told is a load of rubbish.
flattening it and strting again is perfectly reasonable advice.. you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear.. as they say..
better to do it right from the ground up that bodge what's there..
he's already got to change the roof structure and possibly brick up one door so why not start from scratch.. it's small enough that it's not going to be a major undertaking.
You have got approx 1.080mm from the right hand style of the black door frame to to the left hand style of the vent opening.
approximately?? :eek: blimey you're into hundredths of a milimeter there, how many digits do you consider accurate then? :)
 
1,080 = I metre and 80 mil. WTF is that in imperial :confused: :LOL:
 
hang on hang on, I dont know if i wasnt clear to start with, but my coalhouse mirrors next doors, and they are built back to back.

I would have thought that demolishing one side would leave the roof vulnerable to collapse on their side, due to it leaning against the dividing wall. I wouldnt trust the wall to support such a leaning structure, to be honest.

The roof isnt in good nick, its got chunks of cement leaning away from the tiles, and the gutter is supported on a few nails. The timbers, flashing and ridge are sound though.

Next door is rented, and I wouldnt want to go about contacting their landlord for any remedial work for the demolition.

Am I wrong? Would next door's coal house self-support?
 
ColJack. Looks like I have trod on your corns. If I have will tell you why.
The gentleman wrote
All I want it for is storage / laundry equipment (pipes will be lagged). I'm just after methods to make it presentable, inside and out, short of levelling it!!
You answered.
knocking down is indeed aviable option..it leaves you with a brick wall to one side of your garden.. good place to site the barbeque.
Now do you consider that a helpful answer? You then say
I'd advise againt the washer and dryer in there, for a start it's not heated and likely damp in there. so not good for something metal with electronics in it.. , secondly you'd have to trudge out there in the snow and such to do the laundry..
What about the thousands of other house holds that keep their freezer, washing machine, dryer in a garage. If it is snowing, then you don’t go out there, do yer.
Now we are under starters orders again The gentleman quite clearly states that he does not want a knock through. But that does not fit in with your plans, so you then say
flatten it to the foundations and providing they are still sound, re-build with blockwork, insulate and raise the roof ( so that a knock through is at least possible in future, it's too low now compared to the window.. ) and render the outside..
With regard to your question to 1.080mm.
1.080mm is one thousand and eighty mm. For practical purposes working to the nearest mm is good enough for any thing, therefore 80mm, which appears to be confusing you is approx 3ins and 1/8 in old money. Though it would appear that you do not understand old money either. Tut tut When did 42" become 3' 7".
With respect, you now know why I consider your posts a waste of time.
old un.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top