Coalhouse / bog

[ajrobb]

Washing machines contain standing water and must be protected from frost and should be allowed to dry out. Their normal environment is a heated room. Add a washing line for drying in wet weather and you increase the need for heat and ventilation. The hole/shed/lean-to is not a promising start as it is. A modern structure would be less bother than trying to fix what is there.

• I worry that a Portland cement render without a good damp course would trap moisture in the bricks and would soon blow/separate.
  Insulating the current roof should include plenty of ventilation to keep the timbers dry.
  Insulating over the cobbles would loose height.
  Battens on the brick need to be treated as they are likely to be damp.

 

[ColJack]

ColJack. Looks like I have trod on your corns. If I have will tell you why.

you said that my advice was rubish.. it was valid advice whether you agree with it or not.. your opinion is not the only one..

The gentleman wrote
All I want it for is storage / laundry equipment (pipes will be lagged). I'm just after methods to make it presentable, inside and out, short of levelling it!!
You answered.
knocking down is indeed aviable option..it leaves you with a brick wall to one side of your garden.. good place to site the barbeque.
Now do you consider that a helpful answer?

quoted out of context.. that advise was in direct reply to the first post where he says that knocking it down is not a viable option because it shares a wall with next door..
it's perfectly possible to demolish his side and leave the dividing wall in place, then re-build against the wall.

You then say
I'd advise againt the washer and dryer in there, for a start it's not heated and likely damp in there. so not good for something metal with electronics in it.. , secondly you'd have to trudge out there in the snow and such to do the laundry..
What about the thousands of other house holds that keep their freezer, washing machine, dryer in a garage. If it is snowing, then you don’t go out there, do yer.

I'd advise against those too.. if it's an attached garage then there is some heat in there at least..
It's all very good saying don't go out there if it's snowing, but if you have a bad spell of weather you could be stuck without a washing machine for a couple of weeks or more..

Now we are under starters orders again The gentleman quite clearly states that he does not want a knock through. But that does not fit in with your plans, so you then say
flatten it to the foundations and providing they are still sound, re-build with blockwork, insulate and raise the roof ( so that a knock through is at least possible in future, it's too low now compared to the window.. ) and render the outside..

it doesn't fit into his plans right now, but as he's re-roofing it and will be doing some brickwork to it at least, then adding a foot to the height for future proofing ( to have a utility room for example.. no need to trudge in the snown then ) won't cost him that much more now and will save him hassle of taking the roof off again at a later date should he so decide to knock through at that time..

With regard to your question to 1.080mm.
1.080mm is one thousand and eighty mm. For practical purposes working to the nearest mm is good enough for any thing.

no it's not. it says one point zero eight zero millimeters.
that's a decimal point there, and mm is the abbreviation for millimeters, not meters..
had you used a comma as a seperator ( as is common in some other countries to group digits into thousnad, millions etc ) then it would be right, as it would be if you used m instead of mm.

this was a lighthearted quip, hence the smiley, which is what we do on here..

therefore 80mm, which appears to be confusing you is approx 3ins and 1/8 in old money. Though it would appear that you do not understand old money either. Tut tut When did 42" become 3' 7".

ok I'll own up to that one, the tape measure I was using has the feet / inch marked in red next to the inches, but it is marked strangely with the foot / inch marked preceeding the inch that it corresponds to..
so it reads in that section.

41 3-6 42 3-7 43 3-8 44 3-9 etc, with the 3-7 directly above where 1080 comes, so it was a simple slip..

With respect, you now know why I consider your posts a waste of time.
old un.

and your entitled to your opinion, expert or otherwise, as I am to mine, novice in building respects or otherwise.

different advice gives the OP options to choose form or think about and may offer him an option or drawback that he hadn't thought of.

 

[Steve]

With respect oldun, 1.080mm is indeed, one point zero eight zero millimetres - A VERY small amount indeed.

1,080mm is better, at just over a metre. But where there is only one "thousand" number, it is usually written 1080mm.

For example, 28900mm would become 28,900mm, but 1080mm remains 1080mm.

 

[Deluks]

Never mind all that, what have you decided to do?
We await your decision with baited breath... (or if you like, a mouthful of maggots)

 

[Steve]

I think I will wait until next year. You guys have given me a lot to think about.

The best solution will be to knock it flat. But this might not be popular with next door if their outhouse also falls down.

If I knock it down and support next door's if ness, I'll then rebuild a bigger extension to the house and knock through.

If I dont knock it down, it'll get a new roof, boarded walls and ceiling inside, rendered outtside, brick up second door, retain vent, slab paved floor.

 

[tfish]

iv got a similar problem with outhouse tho his one is connected to my house... i think flatterning and rebuilding using breeze block and a cavity is the best solution.

would i need planning for this? the new outhouse will be slighty larger than the old, and probs classed as habitable where as the old coal house wont have been.

???