Connecting cooker cables to electrical mounting box - help!

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Hi,
I have a two core and earth cable, (6mm I think) running from the consumer unit to a double pole switched control unit in the kitchen for the cooker. This cable then runs to the terminal outlet box where the cooker will be.

The cable is all run and the terminal outlet is wired but I'm having immense difficulty trying to wire the control unit due to the thickness and inflexibility of the 6mm wire.

The best I can do is get the screws in to the mounting box but I can't really tighten them, so the control unit sticks out from the wall by 10mm or so.

I've already took the mounting box out and chisselled more of the wall away but obviously not enough and now it's all been replastered so I don't want to do it again.

Does anyone out there have any tips of the best way of wiring these things up? Any crafty hints that help, as I'm about ready to pull my hair out... or would be if I had any!

Any advice very much appreciated!

Cheers,
Aaron
 
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The only problem that I find when terminating cooker switches is that you have to be very careful about how long the cables are - too long and you can't get the switch plate back on - too short and .....

I find that if you use a double height switch and backbox (35mm min) then it is much easier..
 
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This is a mechanical engineering problem. You have to find a way of arranging your wire ends so that you can get them into their terminals AND fold the whole lot back into the box. It can be a tricky business and it certainly helps if you can think in three dimensions. :) :) :)

Nozspark is correct --

The only problem that I find when terminating cooker switches is that you have to be very careful about how long the cables are - too long and you can't get the switch plate back on - too short and .....

What you don't want is a whole load of surplus wire piled up in the back of the box. Use the space around the sides as best you can, remembering to allow for the fixing screws. You might find it easier to work backwards. Can you arrange the wires inside the box in such a way that it can be pulled forwards? I find that a hairpin fold gives the necessary forward movement while also being very compact in the box.

Obviously you must have enough space in the back for one, and probably two, wire diameters. If the switch is going to be hard against the back of the box you've got no chance whatsoever. :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
Thanks for your replies. It's just about passable, or will be once it's got tiles all around it.
Cheers,
Aaron
 

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