Connecting Water Supply To Toilet Inlet

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I've just got to the point where I need to reconnect the water supply to my close coupled cistern and I'm a little confused regarding washers. I made the mistake of not making a note of the washer arrangement when I disconnected the supply. There's the plastic thread that comes out the bottom of the cistern, the copper supply end with the wobbly nut and a very thin copper washer that fits over the inner bit of the supply I presume. Now ... I came across a rubber washer lying on the floor, which I think must have stuck (I don't mean glued) to the plastic inlet when I removed the cistern from the pan. For reasons I won't go into, it's now in two parts. However, while it was still in one piece I tried to figure out where it might go. It wouldn't really sit inside the wobbly nut and it wouldn't fit over the narrow part of the supply pipe. Does it just butt up against the plastic inlet and the nut screw onto it? Should it be rubber or fibre? And what does the thin copper washer do? A diagram would be really handy if someone can point me to one. Thanks in advance.
 
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this is money well spent, go to screwfix and buy a fluidmaster pro inlet with a brass shank on the bottom where it meets the supply pipe andput a half inch fibre washer inside the wobbly nut. take the old inlet off go in the garden and launch it as far as you can. best £11 you will spend this bank holiday
 
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because if hes not sure what washer goes where and has to ask, he needs a foolproof method which will give him a first time fix with no leaks now or in the future.
however i accept your point about why spend £11 when he may only need a complete fibre washer
 
Thanks for your replies folks. While I appreciate your motive regarding using a foolproof replacement, I could end up with the problem of the thread not meeting the inlet unless it protrudes the exact same as my existing thread. The inlet can't really be moved. Plus, I don't really want to spend £11 if I don't have to. I'm pretty sure I only need a new washer, but I'm puzzled by the fact that the washer that I think came off the cistern won't fit inside the wobbly nut - unless I forced it, of course.
 
it may have expanded after becoming wet. if it is from a kit or box of washers then they are not a good fit compared to walking into a plumbers merchant and asking for a half inch fibre washer
 
Here's a photo of the fitting, with the copper washer and the old, er, two-piece washer, ahem, on the side. Never uploaded an image before, so hope it works.
 
the l/h fibre washer sits on top of the isolation valve, on top of the "blue" ring.hand tighten and then just a nip with a spanner. dont see where you would use the rubber washer in this situation.
 
Aha, so the narrow washer is a fibre one? It felt like copper to me, my bad. You could well be right - that rubber washer may not have come from this fitting at all. I just found it on the floor after I'd been fiddling with the cistern so assumed it came from there. So the plastic bit just butts down onto the fiber washer? I suppose that makes more sense. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all your replies. Off to get a replacement fibre washer tomorrow.

Next question. I've replaced the coupling kit on this toilet, and now it's sitting a little higher than before. If you look at the photo of the water inlet fitting, the gap you see is how much the cistern needs to come down. The supply can't be raised, and besides it would leave an unsightly gap between the cistern and pan. I'm assuming the new doughnut washer is thicker than the one I removed. Not quite sure how to proceed. Should I just keep tightening the wingnuts until the cistern comes down far enough? Or should I try and work the doughnut further into the hole? Or should I fill the cistern and let the weight compress the doughnut? Or something...
 
if you are sure the supply pipe wont raise up a touch, then you can cut and extend the supply pipe or go to screwfix and purchase another service valve like the one in your picture but slightly bigger (longer). both ideas involve turning off the cold supply so the choice is yours. for service valves look in the spring 2012 catalogue page 472.you should measure your current valve to ensure you buy one that is a little bigger, the difference is not massive but every little bit helps.
hope that hepls, unlike last nights advice, probably not too sensible to reply to posts after a night in the pub :oops:
 

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