I want to run speaker cable in the expansion gap between the laminate floor and the walls. Where the ends will be visible where the speakers connect in what is the best type of connector to use?
Connections for end of speaker flex
- Thread starter sannesley
- Start date
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Softus said:
Merely your opinion and little use to the OP.
You should not buy inferior products. I have not noticed springs weakening, and without quantifying by how much they weaken, also merely opinion.
This could apply to every metal given the right circumstances in whatever configuration. We dont seem to have too much trouble with things like phone sockets or USB connectors though.
Perhaps you should sack your cleaner.
Whereas screw terminals don't pull out when it would have saved breaking the cable.
As are PVC windows.
Is it so quiet in plumbing that you have to come and argue in our forum?
Hooray - the evening was a bit quiet anyway 
Softus said:There are more effective ways of ruining the floor, assuming that this is what you're trying to do.sannesley said:
One that's compatible with the terminal on the back of the speaker?
Why would running 2 lengths of 24 gauge speaker cable in an expansion gap ruin the floor
The skirting board hasn't even gone on yet so now is the ideal time to run the cables.The cable from the speaker is 24 gauge cable. I was going to use a flat blade crimp terminal for jointing purposes.
[quote="sannesleyWhy would running 2 lengths of 24 gauge speaker cable in an expansion gap ruin the floor [/quote]
If the expansion gap is over sized then you may be OK. If the gap is the minimum then you will have problems
The expansion gap closes up as the floor expands and is essential. If something like cable stops it expanding the floor buckles. The force of expanding wood is very high.
The cable gets squashed and may develop a short between conductors. Spealer cable often has the minimum thickness of insulation.
[/quote]If the expansion gap is over sized then you may be OK. If the gap is the minimum then you will have problems
The expansion gap closes up as the floor expands and is essential. If something like cable stops it expanding the floor buckles. The force of expanding wood is very high.
The cable gets squashed and may develop a short between conductors. Spealer cable often has the minimum thickness of insulation.
If you are fitting new skirting to go with the new floor, you can put a gap behind them and run speaker cables (and aerials, but not mains power) behind them.
One way to do this is to screw plaster-depth battens to the wall at the height of top of the skirting, and a bit above the finished floor. Then you can screw the skirting lightly onto the battens, having run the wires between the battens. You can make any plaster repairs to meet the battens.
If you are using varnished skirting, small countersunk brass screws to hold the skirting to the battens look (I think) perfectly acceptable, and make it easy to remove when redecorating or to change the speaker cable runs.
One way to do this is to screw plaster-depth battens to the wall at the height of top of the skirting, and a bit above the finished floor. Then you can screw the skirting lightly onto the battens, having run the wires between the battens. You can make any plaster repairs to meet the battens.
If you are using varnished skirting, small countersunk brass screws to hold the skirting to the battens look (I think) perfectly acceptable, and make it easy to remove when redecorating or to change the speaker cable runs.
Leaving aside the fact that you didn't say how many cables, or of what gauge, you were planning to run, my point was that if you fill the expansion gap then the floor can't expand sideways. If you make, or have made, the gap bigger to compensate, then you're not laying the cables in the expansion gap, but in the cable gap.sannesley said:Why would running 2 lengths of 24 gauge speaker cable in an expansion gap ruin the floor
In which case then why not just make the gap big enough to allow both for the cables and for expansion?
My personal preference is for speaker cable permanently attached into screw-down posts. If you don't have screw-down posts then crimping on the compatible terminals is equally excellent.
oilman appears to like banana plugs, which is odd, considering his dislike of gorillas.
Banana plugs are fine!
I would have no chance of getting my cables into the through holes that they put into binding posts unless I cut my bass cables in half
If you're really worried (and anal) about it then periodically service them! (I do )
A quick run over with fine scotch-brite will clean up the connections nicely and at the same time you can open up either the spring or, on better quality 'nanas, ease the sections apart. The same goes for screwdown terminals which also tarnish exactly the same
The interconnects will also thank you for an occasional service of the same sort although removal/insertion a couple of times is usually sufficient
Same goes for figure 8 mains power connectors and mains plugs. The persuit of ultimate sound is a finicky and very anal thing
I'm kinda guessing, since there's only mention of 2 speaker cables, that ultimate audio quality isn't likely (no bi-wiring) so in all honesty I'd go with whatever is easiest. Not everyone likes to grow a beard and put on a hair shirt to listen to a few toones
If you haven't bought cables yet then you might consider flat ones. these can be stuck to the wall behind the skirting. Something like THIS
I would have no chance of getting my cables into the through holes that they put into binding posts unless I cut my bass cables in half
If you're really worried (and anal) about it then periodically service them! (I do
)A quick run over with fine scotch-brite will clean up the connections nicely and at the same time you can open up either the spring or, on better quality 'nanas, ease the sections apart. The same goes for screwdown terminals which also tarnish exactly the same
The interconnects will also thank you for an occasional service of the same sort although removal/insertion a couple of times is usually sufficient
Same goes for figure 8 mains power connectors and mains plugs. The persuit of ultimate sound is a finicky and very anal thing
I'm kinda guessing, since there's only mention of 2 speaker cables, that ultimate audio quality isn't likely (no bi-wiring) so in all honesty I'd go with whatever is easiest. Not everyone likes to grow a beard and put on a hair shirt to listen to a few toones
If you haven't bought cables yet then you might consider flat ones. these can be stuck to the wall behind the skirting. Something like THIS
Each to his own.fumbduck said:
I wouldn't do that then.I would have no chance of getting my cables into the through holes that they put into binding posts unless I cut my bass cables in half
I'm not, so I don't.
Er, but they don't tarnish at the point of contact, whereas banana plugs wiggle, hence they do, which is why you service them and I don't have to....The same goes for screwdown terminals which also tarnish exactly the same
That's because they, like banana plugs, don't clamp on.
Which, if you'll pardon the pun, I can't be ars*d with, hence my desire for quick, reliable, maintenance free connections. After all, I don't peridiocally remove my socket faceplates off and remake all the connections.The persuit of ultimate sound is a finicky and very anal thing
I take your point, and like your style.
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