contactor help
- Thread starter shedi123
- Start date
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This is exactly what my idea was and its so simple but the client doesn't want it this way. RRrrrr
Using a photocell in conjunction with a timeclock is a great idea. Lights always go off at the same time but come on when needed in respect to lighting levels which is great for winter as it gets darker earlier.
Can't see picture clearly as lost glasses, 13 & 14 are what's called auxillary contacts, used as hold on circuits for when you remove finger from the on button. Connect across 1 & 2, they are the contacts that have a higher current rating. Do you have 3 sets of contacts . A1 & A2, and 13 & 14 arrangement?
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your right!!!
yes i have 1 and 2, R1 and R2, R3 and R4, 3 and 4. Then in the middle part the is A1 and A2, 21no and 22no, 13 nc and 14 nc.
So do i connect my switch from the photo cell to 13nc then perminant live to 1 and load to 2? Then a perminant live and neutral accross A1 and A2?
Sorry to keep going on. Thanks
You are aware that the coil of the particular contactor you're using is 110v aren't you? It certainly appears to be with the minimal searching (fuelled with Vodka and Red Bull) I've carried out on your behalf.
Thanks gary. Yes the vodka isn't doing to bad at the moment i can still read you messages. Yes its running on a 110volt system.
What's the voltage of your timer and photocell?
Assume the lighting is 230v? If so, how many, rating and type of lamp?
Assume the lighting is 230v? If so, how many, rating and type of lamp?
No timer then? Lights come on at dusk and off at dawn?
What's the switchable rating of the photocell? Do you really need a contactor?
What's the switchable rating of the photocell? Do you really need a contactor?
Sorry gary, if you read back you'll see what i was actually doing. No no timer thats too easy. What im doing is switching the lights slightly different. Basically the come on when it starts to get light and switch off when it gets dark - the opposite to normal operation of a photo cell. This is the reason for the contactor, to used the function of the normally closed or open position. Hopefully this will switch the load the opposite way.
Hello again,
110v live through the photocell & connect to A1, this is the live connection of the coil, return of 110v to A2 and back to 110v supply. Photocell controls the operating coil now. When dark contactor energised, contacts made.
Connect your supply for the lights and any associated switching through the N/C contacts (now open when dark ) of 1 & 2. Lights off when energised as contacts now open. You can use another set of contacts ending in 1 & 2 for the neutral return if its easy ,depends how you are wiring lights up. The 13 and 14 are auxillary contacts used for hold on circuits etc. 6 x58w x 1.8 multiplier for flo lighting is approx 3 amps. You need to select protective device accordingly, I havn't checked the rated current of your contacts so check that aswell. Hope this make things a bit clearer.
110v live through the photocell & connect to A1, this is the live connection of the coil, return of 110v to A2 and back to 110v supply. Photocell controls the operating coil now. When dark contactor energised, contacts made.
Connect your supply for the lights and any associated switching through the N/C contacts (now open when dark ) of 1 & 2. Lights off when energised as contacts now open. You can use another set of contacts ending in 1 & 2 for the neutral return if its easy ,depends how you are wiring lights up. The 13 and 14 are auxillary contacts used for hold on circuits etc. 6 x58w x 1.8 multiplier for flo lighting is approx 3 amps. You need to select protective device accordingly, I havn't checked the rated current of your contacts so check that aswell. Hope this make things a bit clearer.
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