Converting hard-wired to a regular socket?

[ChetMaker]

Hi,

I'd like some advice. I need to replace an under-counter fridge soon. It's hard-wired. I think I could get an electrician to convert the connection to a regular power socket. Is there are any risk with that? Is hard-wiring appliances any safer?

What if that was replaced by a regular or unswitched socket? Kitchen already has a switch for the fridge near the cooker.

For me, hard-wiring just complicates things as even a delivery of a fridge needs a presence of an electrician - or you need a hefty charge of £90 for installation.

The flat isn't that old (12 years) and it seems that most of the new builds have their appliances hard-wired as well. Why is that? You could say that with a regular socket somebody could switch it off accidentally but: 1) sockets would hidden behind the appliance 2) you can have an unswitched socket.

Thanks for your help.

 

[JohnW2]

I'd like some advice. I need to replace an under-counter fridge soon. It's hard-wired. I think I could get an electrician to convert the connection to a regular power socket. Is there are any risk with that?

There would be no problem in doing that,

Is hard-wiring appliances any safer/

I can't think of any reason why it would be.

The flat isn't that old (12 years) and it seems that most of the new builds have their appliances hard-wired as well. Why is that?

I don't think that's all that uncommon these days, but you'd have to ask them why they do it! On the face of it, given that most kitchen appliances come with fitted leads and plugs, sockets would seem more sensible.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

it's much easier to take appliances out, or put new ones in, with a plug and socket. But check that the plug will not stick out far enough to prevent the appliance being pushed in. Dishwashers are worst for that as they are sized to use the maximum space, with a bit of a gap at skirting level for the pipes.

I'd leave your above-counter switch in place, so you can easily turn off the appliance in the unlikely event that it goes wrong.

Don't worry if there is a fuse in the switch, it will do no harm, except to annoy a tiny number of hypothetical pedants. Which also does no harm.

 

[sparkwright]

If it's hard wired, this is often because of a lack of space at the back of the appliance, as JohnD has already indicated.

Integrated (with the cupboard door) appliances are often done like this because they need the extra space at the back.

 

[securespark]

it will do no harm, except to annoy a tiny number of hypothetical pedants.

EXCUSE ME, how dare you!!!

Discrimination, blah, blah, blah......

I'll have you know that I am NOT a hypothetical pedant, but a REAL one!

 

[JohnW2]

If it's hard wired, this is often because of a lack of space at the back of the appliance, as JohnD has already indicated. Integrated (with the cupboard door) appliances are often done like this because they need the extra space at the back.

I don't doubt that that is often the thinking. However, as we've discussed before, with a little thought it is usually possible to locate the socket to the side of the appliance, thereby providing the advantages of plug and socket connection.

Don't forget that a substantial proportion of the population aren't able and/or confident and/or prepared to hard wire a replacement appliance, although they would happily 'plug it in'. For them, hard-wiring therefore will commonly involve them having to pay an exorbitant 'installation charge' when the appliance is replaced.

Kind Regards, John

 

[sparkwright]

I don't doubt that that is often the thinking. However, as we've discussed before, with a little thought it is usually possible to locate the socket to the side of the appliance, thereby providing the advantages of plug and socket connection.



Kind Regards, John

Maybe, but in a new house there is a trend to first fix houses without resorting to putting things in cupboards, especially if the installation is to have isolators above the worktops.

I would say on a new build it is easier just to fit flush boxes to an unplastered wall, rather than faff about putting sockets in cupboards.

Either way, there is a probably a good reason why a flex outlet was used.

I do agree with you though that a plug and socket is much better than a flex outlet/hardwired, the obvious advantages including anyone can connect the appliance by simply plugging in, and the possible issue of a warranty voided by cutting plug off.

 

[JohnW2]

I would say on a new build it is easier just to fit flush boxes to an unplastered wall, rather than faff about putting sockets in cupboards.

Maybe - but, with a bit of thought, I think there are often solutions, which are no less easy to implement. I know several kitchens where appliance sockets have been located behind draws in adjacent units - readily accessible by removing the drawer, and merely requires those flush boxes to be fitting to the unplastered walls in the right places.

I do agree with you though that a plug and socket is much better than a flex outlet/hardwired, the obvious advantages including anyone can connect the appliance by simply plugging in, and the possible issue of a warranty voided by cutting plug off.

Quite so - and, as I said, many people would have to pay someone an appreciable amount of money to cut off the plug and hard-wire the appliance.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

the possible issue of a warranty voided by cutting plug off.

I do not believe that there is one.

 

[securespark]

No, I don't think so either. If you look in the instruction manual, and often on a label attached to the plug or flex, there are instructions for what to do if the plug needs to be replaced. I have done this many times for customers where a bad connection has "welded" the plug to the socket and both have to be discarded.

The manufacturers cannot expect owners to call them in if this happens, so they include instructions for plug replacement.

 

[JohnW2]

No, I don't think so either. If you look in the instruction manual, and often on a label attached to the plug or flex, there are instructions for what to do if the plug needs to be replaced.

Indeed - and, in any event, even if there were no such instructions, I really don't think that any manufacturer would be successful in arguing that removing/changing the plug invalidated the warranty for the appliance.

As often discussed, if someone removed the plug and hard-wired it to a circuit such that the over-current protection were >13A (i.e. without an FCU), the manufacturer might have a bit more of an argument, if they were relying on external protection for the appliance (which they shouldn't).

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Indeed, because if it did get to court you'd have a hard time with the "shouldn't" argument.

Just as they would fielding an expert to show how replacing the plug with a hard-wired connection where you had used the "correct" fuse had caused the problem which was the subject of the warranty claim....

 

[ChetMaker]

Thanks for your opinions. Point taken about space needed for some appliances, like the dishwasher. I there's more room for flexibility with fridges.

I'll have the connection converted to a unswitched socket. However, current hardwired connection has a fuse. Should a get a fused socket then? And should larger kitchen appliance (fridge, washing machine) be plugged to fused sockets only?

 

[JohnW2]

I'll have the connection converted to a unswitched socket. However, current hardwired connection has a fuse. Should a get a fused socket then? And should larger kitchen appliance (fridge, washing machine) be plugged to fused sockets only?

The plugs all have fuses in them, so there's no need for 'fused sockets' (which, in general, don't exist***).

*** as far as I am aware, the only exceptions are 'triple sockets', which have a fuse to limit the total current that can be drawn from the three outlets.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ChetMaker]

The plugs all have fuses in them, so there's no need for 'fused sockets' (which, in general, don't exist***).

Right, I completely forgot about fuses in plugs. How silly of me. Anyway, just doing research to make sure all is safe to use. Many thanks for your advises!