Cooker and hob fitting advice needed

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12 Nov 2011
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Location
Lancashire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi there,

I was thinking of installing this cooker and hob

BOSCH HBN331E0B Built-in Electric Single Oven - Brushed Steel + PKE611E Built-in Ceramic Hob - Black from curry's

My question is ..The manual for installation of the oven states it has to be hard wired and not to use a 13amp plug even though it is rated at 2.3kw. I think the hob is rated at 6.3kw .

I have a cooker control switch with red isolater switch and plug socket combined .Then i have the connection unit behind my exsisting stand along electric cooker .The consumer unit that protects the cooker circuit is protected with a 32amp fuse.

Could i use a click 45a easyfit dual appliance outlet plate and connect 2.5mm twin and earth from dual plate to the oven and connect 4mm twinn and earth from dual plate to Hob ?? I have added diversity when calculating as everything would not be on at the same time.

Any advice appreciated thanks..
 
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Is there any chance you could chop another box in next to the outlet plate and fit a 13A socket off the cooker circuit (in 6mm² most makes of outlet plate have enough room to loop in and out of supply side).

Then wire hob in 6mm/4mm and put plugtop on open and plug into your cooker outlet socket.
 
Hi Adam_151,

Thanks for the reply..Would it not work using my exsisting sockets without adding another ?? what if i used the dual outlet plate but used 6mm for hob and 4mm for oven instead of the 4mm/2.5mm ??
 
The oven manufacturer probably specifies a maximum pertetcive device of 16A, but feel free to ask them whether its acceptable to protect the equipment with a 32A device
 
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Is there any chance you could chop another box in next to the outlet plate and fit a 13A socket off the cooker circuit (in 6mm² most makes of outlet plate have enough room to loop in and out of supply side).

Then wire hob in 6mm/4mm and put plugtop on open and plug into your cooker outlet socket.


Not 100% sure what you mean .. as the manual for oven states not to use 13amp socket/plug.
 
Its telling you not to supply the oven from a general socket outlet circuit at a guess...

Is there anything in the manual telling you what the maximum fuse size that should be used to protect the equipment? My guess is that it would be 16A
 
Hi AdAm_151

The manual onlys says " do not connect using a 13amp plug or protect it with a 13amp fuse"

Does not really say anythink else . :?:
 
I have found out that the oven should be protected by a 16amp fuse..Can anyone link me to the best socket to do the job ,would prefer a decent quality one..Thanks
 
It's a Bosch.

It is designed to go into houses which have 16A socket circuits, i.e. mainland Europe.

It is not designed to go into houses which have 32A socket circuits with 13A fused plugs, i.e. the UK.

To comply with the manufacturer's instructions you'll need a dedicated 16A circuit for it, and to comply with the UK Wiring Regulations* it will have to be hard-wired, because 16A sockets are not shuttered.



* Not actually mandatory, but tricky to avoid when the work is notifiable.
 
It's a Bosch.

It is designed to go into houses which have 16A socket circuits, i.e. mainland Europe.

It is not designed to go into houses which have 32A socket circuits with 13A fused plugs, i.e. the UK.

To comply with the manufacturer's instructions you'll need a dedicated 16A circuit for it, and to comply with the UK Wiring Regulations* it will have to be hard-wired, because 16A sockets are not shuttered.



* Not actually mandatory, but tricky to avoid when the work is notifiable.
So basically i cannot fit this myself ,is that what you are saying ?? Why don't they just make hobs and ovens that will fit just to a cooker connection unit like when you buy a standalone cooker :evil: so now i would need to get a spark in just to add another socket just because of the oven!!
 
Could i use a click 45a easyfit dual appliance outlet plate ??

Yes, but as the circuit protection is 32A you should use 6mm cable for both appliances.

Thanks for the reply..what confuses me is that if i were installing a standalone cooker at say 11.4kw applying diversity then it would be about 28.8 amps including 5amps for the socket at 230v.and this would be ok to fit with my exsiting circuit .

Yet the hob and oven i am looking at is rated at 8.6kw together ..so why should i not be allowed to just hardwire them both using the "click 45a dual outlet plate "..Do i really need to use a seperate 16amp socket ,surly it would work just as well .Are the manufactures just being over the top ?

Just like to add both would be within the 2m as required.
 
Could i use a click 45a easyfit dual appliance outlet plate ??
Yes, but as the circuit protection is 32A you should use 6mm cable for both appliances.
4mm² will do - good for 37A.
Thanks for the reply..what confuses me is that if i were installing a standalone cooker at say 11.4kw applying diversity then it would be about 28.8 amps including 5amps for the socket at 230v.and this would be ok to fit with my exsiting circuit .
Yes.
Yet the hob and oven i am looking at is rated at 8.6kw together ..so why should i not be allowed to just hardwire them both using the "click 45a dual outlet plate "
You can. I would, It is the obvious thing to do.
..Do i really need to use a seperate 16amp socket ,surly it would work just as well
You cannot be expected to follow the manufacturer's instructions when they stipulate things we do not use.
Are the manufactures just being over the top ?
No, they are just translating from German with the numbers being the same.
The manual onlys says " do not connect using a 13amp plug or protect it with a 13amp fuse"
If that is all it says then you are not contravening any manufacturers instructions.


The 32A breaker is there to protect the cable - not the oven and/or hob.
That is why you must use cable with a rating of at least 32A (i.e. not 2.5mm²).
 
There is no need to provide a 6mm cable if there is no likelihood of overload and the cable is compliant with respect to fault protection.
 

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