cooker and hob installation help

[fabio]

im upgrading my cooker and hob. my supply is 6mm t+e fed with a 30a mcb.

my new cooker 2400w 230v (10 amps)

my new hob is 6600w 230v (28amps)

will it be ok to supply both these off my 6mm 30amp supply or will i need to upgrade the supply

any help would be greatly appriciated

 

[Taylortwocities]

OK hello and welcome!

The new cooker can just plug into a 13A socket, do you have one that could be used?

Otherwise they may have to share the existing feed.

Big question:
What sort of hob is it? Ceramic, induction, other?

 

[fabio]

OK hello and welcome!

The new cooker can just plug into a 13A socket, do you have one that could be used?

Otherwise they may have to share the existing feed.

Big question:
What sort of hob is it? Ceramic, induction, other?

thanks for your reply
ceramic, hotpoint crm641dc

there is a socket that could be used, although its on a ring that feeds all of downstairs, im happy enough to just use the 6mm supply for both, if its safe

im just concerned that it will constantly trip out, is that the case?

EDIT

if i just plugged it in a 13 amp socket would i need a local cooker isolation switch as the socket is behind the cooker so i wouldnt be able to isolate only at the mains board

 

[Taylortwocities]

Those two are fine to run off the 30A supply.

The hob will wire direct in using whatever cable the maker recommends.
Check the instructions for the oven. It may specify that it must be protected by a 13A fuse. If so there are ways to do this.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[fabio]

Cheers lads I will do it off the existing supply then

 

[Taylortwocities]

Your oven should not be connected to the ring circuit, any load over 2kw should have a seperate supply to comply with BS7671.

Have a look at this recent discussion that describes the correct way of overcoming your problem.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=225931&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I think TTC must be nursing a hangover.

Not at all, junglebunny. I'm bright eyed and bushy tailed.

Modern ovens that are supplied with a 13A plug are designed to (guess what) plug into a 13A socket.

You say

Your oven should not be connected to the ring circuit,

but that is erroneous information - so stop trying to scare DIYers. Tell me the reg that says that...../

There is a note in BS7671 Appendix 15 INFORMATIVE about methods of reducing long period loads on ring final circuits.

It says that ONE OF THE METHODS of doing this is to restrict such loads to 2KW.
But a 2.4KW oven will not present a long period of more than 2KW, it has thermostats etc and thats what we (in the UK) call diversity.

So, you have said "should" and you should have said "could".
It is a different word. Ask Bubbles.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[Taylortwocities]

Can you indicate where, on that thread, I referred to a >2KW oven being plugged in to a ring final circuit.
All of the discussion was relating to connecting both appliances to the existing 30A cooker RADIAL.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[PrinceofDarkness]

There's a tried and trusted, 60 year-old 'rule' in the Regs which has remained unaltered to this day - and which needs no alteration or amendment:

A standard, domestic, 30/32A cooker circuit is adequate for cooking appliances up to 15kW.

Provided that the O/P's hob and oven are within 2 Metres of each other, then his combined 9kW load can share a common isolator.....

Lucia.

 

[ColJack]

ok, you tell me how a 10A load on a 32A protected ring main, where the cable current carrying capacity for each leg is minimal 20A constitutes an excess for a long period on even a single leg?
even if it's on the socket closest to the board you're still not running the full 10A down one leg so it's not even half..

and as it says .."this can generally be achieved by..." which means that it's a suggestion and not a hard and fast rule..

Lucia, no one suggested that they need seperate isolators.. merely that the oven can be plugged into a handy socket if needs be.

the ideal solution is to swap the cooker outlet for a dual outlet / dual backbox and wire a socket outlet to the existing circuit so that the hob can be wired directly to the circuit and the oven then plugged in and correctly fused down to protect the oven cable and wiring.


View media item 10929 View media item 10930or
View media item 11376 and wire the second cable to a seperate socket outlet.

 

[BODGER952]

Thanks Taylortwocities
I wrote my question from memory whilst at work. Fabio's figures are similar to my own new oven- hob
40A mcb with 6.5 t+e
oven 2300w draws 8.2 amps at start up
halogen hob 5700w 8.6a/6.8a/4.7a/4.7a all max amp draw on starting
not yet connected extractor fan 1400w + 2 40w bulbs.
now i read and understand what your saying about diversity, being a single bloke the ping ping thingy in the corner nukes most of my scoff
i have taken the feed for my hob, oven and extractor directly from the cooker isolation (45a) switch using 2.5 t+e
the oven feed is via a 13a fcu
the hob feed is via a 13a fcu
the extractor i intend to connect using a 3 pin plug and a 7a fuse.
is the 13a fcu safe for the hob? and without a crystal ball why hasn't the 6mm bolt which ZAIRE thinks is fitted not blown,

 

[PrinceofDarkness]

Coljack: do you intend to pick me up on some trivial point every time I post here?

I'm quite aware that no one has mentioned separate isolators, apart from myself. The point of my post was to assure the O/P that his standard circuit is adequate to supply both appliances and that they can share a common isolator (provided they're within 2M of each other).

I'm not interested in the petty side-issue of plugging-in ovens to a socket circuit. That isn't the main issue here. The O/P simply wants to know whether he can use his existing supply without 'upgrading' it.

Perhaps you should read the whole thread?


Lucia.