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Cooker Cable slightly damaged . Advice on repair.

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by ruddyr1, 8 Jul 2014.

  1. ekmdgrf

    ekmdgrf

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    Maybe the cable is a live?
     
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  3. ruddyr1

    ruddyr1

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    Well Ive cut the insulation back to examine it closely and yes the cables have been damaged. They havent been completely cut through but are definitely mis shaped.

    Presumably as was suggested earlier. I can but a junction box in and run fresh cable from it to the cooker isolation switch.

    Any advice on best junction box to use.

    the junction will be above the kitchen wall units with the fresh cable running down the back of the units to the isolation switch.
     
  4. ruddyr1

    ruddyr1

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    Ok is this damaged too much to wrap in tape? Should I just cut and add junction box and new section of wire?


     
  5. flyingsparks

    flyingsparks

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    It doesn't look too bad but yes I would probably replace it. What you could do is carefully slice the outer sheath back a bit and then put a joint box in but only cut the black cable and rejoin it inside the jb with a wago. Don't cut the red and earth as no point. Good idea to still leave that joint accessible above the units.
     
  6. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    It's obviously 'a matter of opinion', but I personally wouldn't be at all happy to leave that (just with SA tape or whatever) - for a start, there's not really any telling how close those damaged strands are to 'snapping'. Although it would be nice to just join the one conductor, if I understand correctly, the damage will be behind the units, so the cable may well have to be cut higher up and all three conductors joined in an accessible JB above the units (a "wago in a JB" would, of course, have to remain accessible, if one wanted to be reg-compliant).

    Kind Regards, John
     
  7. flyingsparks

    flyingsparks

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    Which is why I wrote:

     
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  9. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    OK, but my point was, that from my personal point of view, it did look 'too bad' to leave like that, and so I personally would not subscribe to the 'probably', either! As I said, opinions/judgements will vary.

    Kind Regards, John
     
  10. flyingsparks

    flyingsparks

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    Looking at the picture again now (earlier it was a quick glance!) I would agree with you John, and say that it should definitely be cut out!
     
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  11. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    Glad to hear that you agree with me now. I have to say that, although I acknowledged that opinions would vary, I was a little surprised by the view you initially expressed!

    Cheers, John
     
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  12. ruddyr1

    ruddyr1

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    What is best wago to use 222 or 773.

    It would be behind the units so I will have to cut all three and join in JB above units.

    So 3 wago s.

    Alternatively the isolation switch is 18 inches below the damage. Could I simply move that up and have it inside the cupboard. It will still be readily accessible.
     
  13. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    Provided that the cable is no larger than 4mm², it's really a matter of choice, although I personally tend to favour 222s for stranded conductors. If it's 6mm², then you may have no choice but to use 773-173s, and least for line/live and neutral, since I'm not sure that they make 222s that will take that size conductor.
    Fair enough. Of course, it does not have to be Wagos - other JBs could be used.
    Whilst it doesn't matter too much where an 'isolation switch' is, the main purpose of this one is probably as an 'emergency switch' - and, although I'm not aware of any regulations against it, some people (perhaps not unreasonably) don't like the idea of an 'emergency switch' which is behind boxes of cornflakes and pasta etc. or piles of saucepans! Another alternative would be to put the JB inside the cupboard, but I'm not sure I see any real advantage - above the cupboard sounds the most obvious.

    Kind Regards, John
     
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