Cooker fuse keeps blowing

[mutley11]

Hope you guys can help.

I have an electric cooker, electric hob and cooker hood all on the same circuit through the kitchen fuse. The fuse is 13A and it blows every 3 months or so and normally when the cooker and 2 hobs are on together.

Any idea why?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well. it would.

How are all these appliances connected to the 13A fuse?

 

[mutley11]

Well. it would.

How are all these appliances connected to the 13A fuse?

i don't know. the fuse is on the wall and i think they all connected through the ringmain.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The loads are simply too much for a 13A fuse - it is doing its job.

It needs rewiring properly.
Do you have a cooker switch nearby which is not used?

 

[mutley11]

The loads are simply too much for a 13A fuse - it is doing its job.

It needs rewiring properly.
Do you have a cooker switch nearby which is not used?

are you saying they should not all be on the same circuit? are you saying one of the appliance should be going to a different fuse on the wall?

 

[Adam_151]

If the hob is an electric one, rather than gas with powered sparker, then it wouldn't be on the fused spur at all. It requires a dedicated cirucit back to the consumer unit

 

[mutley11]

If the hob is an electric one, rather than gas with powered sparker, then it wouldn't be on the fused spur at all. It requires a dedicated cirucit back to the consumer unit

it is on a dedicated circuit back to the consumer unit but there is a spur switch on the wall in the kitchen which allows the 3 units to be isolated from the mains for maintenance work on them. i think this is easier than switching the switch off on the consumer unit off every time you need to do some work on it.

 

[Adam_151]

A local isolator is indeed required, but a fused spur is not correct for this job as it is only rated at 13amp.

You require an appropiatly rated double pole switch for the hob. The cable should come from the consumer unit to the supply terminals of the switch (not looping through any other accessories), and from the load to the hob. Fused spurs for the oven (if less than 3kw) and the extractor can be branched off the main isolator in suitably rated cable

What size is the cable to the consumer unit from these 3 spurs, and ehat size is the MCB?

 

[mutley11]

A local isolator is indeed required, but a fused spur is not correct for this job as it is only rated at 13amp.

You require an appropiatly rated double pole switch for the hob. The cable should come from the consumer unit to the supply terminals of the switch (not looping through any other accessories), and from the load to the hob. Fused spurs for the oven (if less than 3kw) and the extractor can be branched off the main isolator in suitably rated cable

What size is the cable to the consumer unit from these 3 spurs, and ehat size is the MCB?

i am not an electrician so i don't know about the cable size but i think they should be sufficient. the isolating switch may well be a double pole switch but it had a 13A fuse in it which you can replace when blown. What sort of amp should be in there?

 

[Taylortwocities]

i am not an electrician so i don't know about the cable size

You need to know, its very important. Cables that are too small can melt and catch fire.

the isolating switch may well be a double pole switch but it had a 13A fuse in it which you can replace when blown.

Probably a double pole switch but that's not the point. It's the wrong sort of isolator for the hob&oven.

What sort of amp should be in there?

If it is connected to the cooker circuit then it will be a high current switch with no fuse.
BUT the cables and the connections have all to be engineered to cope with the high currents.

This will be hard to advise over the Internet if you have no electrical background. Best to get a spark in.