Correct installation for a "mini kitchen"

[AMEdinburgh]

I have one of the Whirlpool Minikitchens ART3154gl which is a small fridge, cupboard sink and hob all integrated into a 1000mm metal fridge like cabinet. It comes with a fitted plug and I want to install it in our new staff room.

How would it be best to install it. I was thinking about simply a single switched socket in the cupboard area but was concerned that this is then under the bowl so I could use a Masterseal single socket for it's IP 56 rating.

If I was to use this product, it is un-switched and does that matter in this circumstance?

Should I have a switch above counter level to control the socket or is it not necessary?

Any helpful advice gratefully received. Thank you.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Staff room implies place of work and therefore all kinds of requirements under Health & Safety legislation, and quite possibly all kinds of small print in buildings, contents and liability insurances.

How would it be best to install it.

By getting a qualified electrician.

 

[sparky1scotland]

The appliance must be able to switch off from the counter top. Although the IP rated socket was a good idea it will not satisfy the regs !! Continue the kitchen ring if possible to a switched fused sour then down to a single socket, or do as Ban says and get a spark !!! am vey cheap by the way, give me a buzz !!!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I was thinking about simply a single switched socket in the cupboard area

So you have a freestanding appliance with a flex and a plug, and you intend to power it by installing a socket inside the appliance.

How's that going to work?

If I was to use this product, it is un-switched

Only if you deliberately choose to use an unswitched one instead of switched...

 

[sparky1scotland]

then down to a single socket,what part didnt you understand !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My question was directed at the OP.

 

[AMEdinburgh]

Just to clarify, the cupboard half of the unit has no back and so could plug into a socket already on the wall at normal height and the socket is accessible at the back of the cupboard.

It was the fact that the socket is then under the sink that was worrying me and as we only have the stud walls up so far, I can install whatever and wherever I desire, before we cut and fit the Multipanels for the room's walls.

All said, am I right in thinking the best route is put in an above counter isolating switch and use the Masterseal unswitched socket (don't think a switched single is made) as the outlet affording protection from any water should it drip from the sink tap or drainage.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Just to clarify, the cupboard half of the unit has no back and so could plug into a socket already on the wall at normal height and the socket is accessible at the back of the cupboard.

OK - I thought from your description earlier that you planned to fit the socket inside the cupboard of the unit.

as we only have the stud walls up so far, I can install whatever and wherever I desire, before we cut and fit the Multipanels for the room's walls.

Then don't fit a socket under the sink, or if you must do this then go via an accessible FCU as suggested by Sparky1.

All said, am I right in thinking the best route is put in an above counter isolating switch and use the Masterseal unswitched socket (don't think a switched single is made) as the outlet affording protection from any water should it drip from the sink tap or drainage.

If you're going to use an FCU, you could then just go to a flex outlet, which would be easy to seal.

 

[AMEdinburgh]

I would like to retain the plug so that I can do a PAT on it, periodically, when I do my other equipment.

I've had nuisance tripping from a fridge before and would like to retain the facilty to test, as easily as possible.

Thanks for all replies.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Then don't put the socket behind the unit.

 

[AMEdinburgh]

It won't be behind but is essentialy within the unit, Mr Ban All Sheds, as the cupboard part has no back panel and therefore the wall of the room is seen as the "back" of the cupboard.

I only made my comment as your suggestion of a flex outlet would prevent me from performing a PAT without disconnecting the unit.

Anyway thanks to all, I've now cut the multipanel for that wall with the layout decided.

A Happy Hogmanay to all.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It won't be behind but is essentialy within the unit, Mr Ban All Sheds, as the cupboard part has no back panel and therefore the wall of the room is seen as the "back" of the cupboard.

So it's behind the unit.

Anyway thanks to all, I've now cut the multipanel for that wall with the layout decided.

Don't know why you bothered to ask advice then.

I take it you are fully conversant with your duties under the EAWR, and are confident that you have sufficient knowledge and experience to make the right judgements and decisions and the necessary skill and ability to carry them into effect?

 

[AMEdinburgh]

"So it's behind the unit."

I am not troubled by the difference between "within" and "behind" if there is one. Please be content, similarly.

"Don't know why you bothered to ask advice then."

I took the advice of sparky1's solution which was to extend the ring to a counter top fused spur and from there to the socket.

"I take it you are fully conversant with your duties under the EAWR, and are confident that you have sufficient knowledge and experience to make the right judgements and decisions and the necessary skill and ability to carry them into effect?"

Yes and yes and outwith the scope of my posting

Please leave me alone now and have a Good New Year. Thank you.

 

[RF Lighting]

Nice attitude

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Please leave me alone now.

Feel free to never return here, that way we'll all leave you alone.