CORRECT WAY TO CHASE CABLE????

[Dave123456789]

Hi

My consumer unit is at the very front of the house as you enter.
I'm having the consumer unit changed as its very old.

I am having a new kitchen done towards the back of the house - so you have to walk along the a narrow hallway before entering the kitchen.......which requires hardwiring for new oven and some new sockets that i need too

i currently have all downstairs sockets i.e. living room dining room kitchen all on one ring that hooks up to a 40amp breaker on consumer unit i think,

Q1) - if i require more sockets in my kitchen - should i make this as part of a new ring and leave existing as they are? they literally only power the TV the fridge and toaster. or cut off the old and make it all one separate kitchen ring? this is a lot more work

Q2 - main question) - WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO CHASE THE CABLES FROM UNIT TO MY KITCHEN?

i have laminate flooring upstairs so thats ruled out.
i have hardwood flooring in my downstairs hallway - so thats not coming out. ceiling is skimmed.

do i put behind the coving? chase horizontally across the wall in trunking?

THEN - when i get into the kitchen i will have floor access as old tiles are coming out - but then its all concrete underneath - so do i again chase on the wall?? what choice am i left with??


WHAT is the right practice that would meet regulation pls can somebody kindly advise??? how do people correctly chase? under floorboards? break part of wall? ceiling? coving?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

My consumer unit is at the very front of the house as you enter.
I'm having the consumer unit changed as its very old.

Is this being installed by a competent electrician?

I am having a new kitchen done towards the back of the house - so you have to walk along the a narrow hallway before entering the kitchen.......which requires hardwiring for new oven and some new sockets that i need too
i currently have all downstairs sockets i.e. living room dining room kitchen all on one ring that hooks up to a 40amp breaker on consumer unit i think,

It is likely to be a 30A or a 32A protective device.

Q1) - if i require more sockets in my kitchen - should i make this as part of a new ring and leave existing as they are? they literally only power the TV the fridge and toaster. or cut off the old and make it all one separate kitchen ring? this is a lot more work

If you are having a new board installed, it probably does not matter too much, providing you don't overload either circuit.

Q2 - main question) - WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO CHASE THE CABLES FROM UNIT TO MY KITCHEN?

You will find info on that here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Installation-Techniques

WHAT is the right practice that would meet regulation pls can somebody kindly advise??? how do people correctly chase? under floorboards? break part of wall? ceiling? coving?

Something you should be talking to your electrician about, they will see things we can't!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A number of valid questions and points.

I am having a new kitchen

Who will be doing the electrical installation aspects of it?

i have laminate flooring upstairs

A key thing with laminate flooring is that it should not be installed until after all the electrical work which needs under-floor access, and which will be required within the lifetime of the floor, has been done.

chase horizontally across the wall in trunking?

You are very limited for depth with horizontal chases. Since steel conduit would almost certainly have to be used I doubt that horizontal chases would be feasible.

 

[Dave123456789]

Yes I have had a couple come in from Yellow pages i am not going to do anything myself. I only ask one said he aint touching it as he wont chase onto a wall. and the other didnt care it was laminate upstairs and concrete once u enter kitchen.

i am not sure about the device Derry - the fuse board is going to be changed to 10 way or 7 way they said. as for the oven its this one i want:
http://www.kitchenappliancecentre.c...in-microwave-with-grill-stainless-steel-p2491

yes i will of course try not to overload but if some stay on one ring and others on a new ring - despite being in same room - is it really an issue lol

BAN ALL SHEDS i know but i did laminate upstairs years ago and doing kitchen now - didnt know until a few weeks back i need hard wiring my current cooker is freestanding gas works on a 13 amp plug!!

as for the chasing - if he cant use the wall - i honestly dont know how he plans to do it. part of the room is wooden flooring to be fair = and so has floorboards underneath. i suppose he can use that??? do u need to trunk a 6mm wire under floorboards or can you leave it ??

its all rather silly - i mean not everybody has ceiling access - so how can you do it otherwise?! floorboards surely....otherwise wall?! or even put behind coving?! id rather replace that!!

 

[Aragorn84]

You lift the floor boards (and any floor covering), and make good afterwards.

Why dont you retain a gas cooker, that way you can continue running it from the kitchen ring as before?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes I have had a couple come in from Yellow pages i am not going to do anything myself. I only ask one said he aint touching it as he wont chase onto a wall. and the other didnt care it was laminate upstairs and concrete once u enter kitchen.

Well if one will not chase cable routes, hardly a domestic electrician then.
You need to make sure the electrician is going to follow the notification procedures, as it will be required.

i am not sure about the device Derry - the fuse board is going to be changed to 10 way or 7 way they said. as for the oven its this one i want:
http://www.kitchenappliancecentre.c...wave-with-grill-stainless-steel-p2491[/QUOTE] The microwave will likely only require less than 13A supply, but there will be your oven/hob loads to consider.

but if some stay on one ring and others on a new ring - despite being in same room - is it really an issue

No

 

[pjcomp]

The so-called "safe zones" for running cables include burying them in the walls (chasing in) within six inches (150mm) of the ceiling, so it's not unreasonable to surface clip them within that area and cover them with coving. The cables will then enter the kitchen at ceiling level, and you can chase down the walls to the relevant socket/switch points. Worth putting a note on the consumer unit recording that the cables are behind the coving, just for added protection/information for any future worker.

pj

 

[JohnW2]

Worth putting a note on the consumer unit recording that the cables are behind the coving, just for added protection/information for any future worker.

It couldn't do any harm, but I doubt that the sort of tradespeople (or DIYers) likely to do work on/near the coving would be likely to look at the CU for notes! A note 'on the coving' would be much more effective, but is unlikely to be considered aesthetically acceptable!

Kind Regards, John

 

[footprints]

Correct way to chase cable???

How about with a Wire Hair Fox Terrier!