Yes sure, well noted!If you do need to fit collars, be aware of the roof window positioning, relative to the collar ceiling. It's a juggling act, getting the window high enough from the eaves but lower than the collar ceiling.
Yes sure, well noted!If you do need to fit collars, be aware of the roof window positioning, relative to the collar ceiling. It's a juggling act, getting the window high enough from the eaves but lower than the collar ceiling.
Not sure what you mean? Are you referring to the wall plate on top of a wall at eaves or a pole plate or pitching plate fixed to a vertical wall?Does sinking wallplates horizontally into existing walls help too?
Sometimes it means ordering a smaller (height) roof window. You will be a minimum of two tiles up from the eaves, perhaps three. Remember, roof windows work in tile batten spacing increments. I take it they are conc' interlocking tiles?Yes sure, well noted!
The reason I ask is because the shorter side wall is to be a feature wall made up of yellow stocks on view and unplastered so I can't place straps on the wall plate in the normal way. So I thought about taking a couple of bricks out of the existing wall and pushing the wall plates into the hole and cementing it in as well to stop the wall plate from being forced outwards?Does sinking wallplates horizontally into existing walls help too?
Once you ridge beam is adequately supported and all the roof it tight and nicely cut/fixed, the wall plates are not going to want to spread. We had one instance whereby the (vaulted roof) frame was complete and all collars fixed. We just needed to brick the gables up to collect the ridge beam bearing. A bit of over-zealous propping meant that the wall plates at one end had lifted slightly. We eased the Acrow down and caried on.The reason I ask is because the shorter side wall is to be a feature wall made up of yellow stocks on view and unplastered so I can't place straps on the wall plate in the normal way. So I thought about taking a couple of bricks out of the existing wall and pushing the wall plates into the hole and cementing it in as well to stop the wall plate from being forced outwards?
Watch this YT videoat 32:47 in to be clear. Thanks.
Ok got it, thanks noseallOnce you ridge beam is adequately supported and all the roof it tight and nicely cut/fixed, the wall plates are not going to want to spread. We had one instance whereby the (vaulted roof) frame was complete and all collars fixed. We just needed to brick the gables up to collect the ridge beam bearing. A bit of over-zealous propping meant that the wall plates at one end had lifted slightly. We eased the Acrow down and caried on.
A few vaulted roofs we've done...Ok got it, thanks noseall
Wow noseall that's wonderful work. Do you work near Waltham Forest London? lolA few vaulted roofs we've done...
No. I did my London stint back in my mid-20's.Wow noseall that's wonderful work. Do you work near Waltham Forest London? lol
Fixing to the side of the ridge beam is fine. It's just that the whole ridge beam thing is very bulky, so that tends to leave a broad flat top to deal with, at the peak of the roof. As long as they have filled out the web with timber crack on. The timber fillet bolts can be a pain though when they clash with the rafter plumb cut.Just one thing I noticed. All your rafters are sitting on top of the ridge beam, so I assume attaching the rafters to the side of the ridge beam is a complete no no? I just want to make sure that if I get someone in that they're not cowboys.
Ok noseall, no worries thanks.No. I did my London stint back in my mid-20's.
Fixing to the side of the ridge beam is fine. It's just that the whole ridge beam thing is very bulky, so that tends to leave a broad flat top to deal with, at the peak of the roof. As long as they have filled out the web with timber crack on. The timber fillet bolts can be a pain though when they clash with the rafter plumb cut.
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