i hope someone out their can help me , i am due to go on holiday this weekend and decided to service my car (escort turbo diesel estate 1.8 1999) i changed the oil and filters no problem i then checked the track controll ball joints and in doing this i put the trolley jack underneath the sump a big mistake i know as i now have a crack aprox 5-10 mill long wich is losing oil . i know the obvious answer is to fit a new sump but i do not have the time and money at the moment to do that , i need to get my holiday over with first i am travelling aprox 1000 miles rochdale to cornwall i believe their is some chemical metal wich i can use . can anyone give me some advice as the wife is not very happy with my attempt to service car . thank you . dennis
cracked aliminium sump/help needed
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There are indeed chemical metals, but I wouldn't trust one in that environment, ie vibration, heat etc. Plus, you'd have to make the area grease-free while it cures. Difficult.
And even if you manage it, the crack could worsen anyway.
I'd hire a car and put it down to our old mate, Experience.
And even if you manage it, the crack could worsen anyway.
I'd hire a car and put it down to our old mate, Experience.
Halfords do a product called "Repair Stick for Diesel Tanks and Radiators" I used it recently to repair the radiator of my Daf 200 van in desperation and surprisingly it worked fine. I'm still looking for a replacement radiator (if anyone has one knocking about) but I haven't had any leaks since.
Since it is OK for Diesel, I take it that it should be OK for engine oil. If you're interested, desperate and happen to live in Essex, I happen to have a spare stick. (I bought two only needed one). I could let you have it at cost price (I think about £3
).
Since it is OK for Diesel, I take it that it should be OK for engine oil. If you're interested, desperate and happen to live in Essex, I happen to have a spare stick. (I bought two only needed one). I could let you have it at cost price (I think about £3
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david and julie
Depending where the crack is, if it is only 10mm long it may be possible to drill and tap it and insert a bolt with washer and "O"ring. If you do try this put grease on the drill and the tap to catch the swarf. Make sure the bolt is as short as possible. clean with meths and use loc-tite. Change oil again to remove any swarf, then start the engine on tickover listening for any odd noises near the bolt. This is unlikely unless the bolt is far to long.
The above is a long term solution, if it can be correctly done. It can only be done on flat areas.
Please don't take this wrongly, but you need to be 100% confident in your ability on this one.
I understand the timing is bad, but if you blow the engine you will write off a 5 year old car.
The above is a long term solution, if it can be correctly done. It can only be done on flat areas.
Please don't take this wrongly, but you need to be 100% confident in your ability on this one.
I understand the timing is bad, but if you blow the engine you will write off a 5 year old car.
I would think the sump needs to come off to effect repair .... One only hopes that this is a straight forward job ... maybe not ! Pretty crucial part, the sump. .... Scrapper from car breakers ?
Need a manual to be sure of what is required here .... I remember one car in the past where the engine needed to be lifted to clear cross brace and the timing cover partially removed to release the sump .. ugh !!
A shot in the dark, here
P
Need a manual to be sure of what is required here .... I remember one car in the past where the engine needed to be lifted to clear cross brace and the timing cover partially removed to release the sump .. ugh !!
A shot in the dark, here
P
