Cracks along joins of painted lining paper

[jondecs]

Did you thin the first coat?
Looks to me like tooo thick emulsion has been used to try and fill, this usually causes the mudcrack and agree, usually sorted with solvent undercoat as mentioned above.

I Never! not! ever! line with the aim of filling alll those joints, Butt, and just fill where the joints have wondered slightly. I tend to use a medium strength ready mixed adhesive nowadays, Its more pricey but saves on time and dries out quicker and more reliable when emulsioning over (joints wont lift)

I thin the first coat to seal/ prime then second coat bit more round. (thicker). Normally just two coats suffice.

god luck

 

[TheDec]

Well I don't know if it's my eyes or camera trickery, but it looks as. If it was applied over a textured surface?

Dec

 

[crafty]

Well I don't know if it's my eyes or camera trickery, but it looks as. If it was applied over a textured surface?

Dec

Dec, no trickery or suspect vision on your part, just me trying to see if applying the paint a little thicker over the cracks would help (the surface was smooth).


Anyhow, as suggested by a another I gently slid a blade under and lifted ever-so slightly and teased in a little border adhesive (instead of emulsion) and pressed back down, taking care to wipe away any excess. Held in down for a couple of minutes to help it stay.
Then sealed the problem joints with oil based Zinsser before emulsioning once dry, and...hey presto, problem solved. Of course, I did carefully sand back the areas around the cracks first to remove the texture and blend it back in with the rest of the wall once over painted again.

Many thanks to one and all for all your constructive replies and help, much appreciated.

Crafty.

 

[doctordee]

Hi Crafty

I have exactly the same problem and it's doing my (wife's!) head in, and therefore mine.

I don't have any 'lifting' of the lining paper, just the cracks. So will miss out the 'peeling back with a sharp blade stage'.

Did you say that going over the cracks with an oil based primer and then re-painting does the job no problems?

Did you have to fill the cracks first or once primed just paint over again?

What primer did you use? How many coats of primer? Did you then water down the first coat of emulsion when re-painting?

Sorry for all the questions but having looked on loads of forums and websited this is the first one I've found where someone knows what I'm talking about.

Many Thanks,
Doctor

Just one more question maybe someone can answer?!!

I've looked at the Zinsser products and came across Gardz? Supposed to dry ultra hard and is good for porous surfaces?
http://www.zinsserdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=96
Is this better than BIN or BullsEye?

Thanks

 

[crafty]

Hi Doctor

I had the exact opposite - my wife wasn't too fussed by them at all as they were only very faint but were doing my head in no end!

Anyhow, have you actually tried getting a very sharp craft blade under the crack to see if it does lift? It's possible that it may appear like there is no lifting of the edges when in actual fact there is - there only needs to be miniscule amount of lifting for the cracking to occur. Stanley type blades will be too thick for this so it's worth getting some that are thinner (or get a scalpol or those ye-olde razor blades).

I only managed to lift the paper up probably no more than half a millimeter but was enough for me to tease in a small amount of glue. Even then, once pressed back down you'll get som glue flow out which needs to be wiped off. If you're certain that there's no lifting then you could just try using oil-based undercoat on one area first to see how it turns out (once you've got your topcoat on as well that is, see below).

Once the glue had set i did have to fill the joint area around where I prodded in the blade and teased in the glue just to even out the surface again. Then lightly sanded to remove any uneveness in the filler (but if done very carefully you might need to sand).

I just used some Zinsser Bullseye Oderlous which is all based as I had a tin in the shed. When you do use an undercoat don't be tempted to apply it too thickly as it will then be raised compared to the finish coat you have. I used a mini emulsion roller to apply it with. Once dried I just went over the whole wall with another coat of unthinned emulsion. Bare in mind when you do this it will look like the undercoat is flashing through the finish coat (I was preparing myself with the thought of stripping the whole lot and starting again!), don't be alarmed as this should only be temporary whilst the finish coat is drying.

P.S. As for the Zinsser products it depends on what your situation and intended use is. Each has its own merrits depending on the job. I've recently used BIN on all the door frames, skirting and stair risers to cover some dark stain and varnish and it's sealed in any colour bleed well, whereas I've done the same thing with Bullseye 123 (waterbased) and it still let the stain bleed through into the topcoat but it was good as a primer on bare wood and areas that weren't stained.

Cheers

 

[Growler]

Did any of you with cracks along the seams, first sponge over to wipe any paste residue off

You should always sponge along the seam when papering, or if you emulsion it, you'll just be emulsioning over paste and emulsioning over paste causes....

 

[joe-90]

Good tip.