Cut and cover part of solider course above window

Bov

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Hi

I have a 1930s house and am looking to replace an old white UPVC window with a new one (with privacy glass) and at the same time am getting a new lintel inserted (there wasn't one previously and the bricks are starting to crack / sag a little above the window).

The window installer has told me what they'll do is to cut the bottom 50-60mm off the soldier course to get to the next mortar line above the window. They'll insert the lintel at that point and then cover where the cut-out bricks were with a white UPVC cover to match the window frame.

I'm having some doubts about this fascia idea in that it could look a bit unsightly. I've been scouring the internet for pictures / explanations of this approach but couldn't find anything. I've a couple of questions please:

1) is there another available option in this instance that could avoid the need for this fascia covering? (I don't mind lowering the height of the window is it means getting a neater solution.)

2) could anyone by any chance point me towards a picture of how this fascia-covering solution would look? It might be that it's a common thing to do and looks ok.

I've attached a couple of photos: the current position and what I'm imagining the proposed solution will look like.

Thanks in advance, any help is much appreciated. I might be worrying about nothing really, but I'd just like to make sure!
 

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1) is there another available option in this instance that could avoid the need for this fascia covering?
Lol. If they can't fix it with silicone and plastic, window fitters are not interested.

It needs the soldier course removing completely. An angle fitting and the soldier course re laying. No excuses.

 
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You'd be better off getting a builder to do the job. And yes imho a big white strip will look odd on that one window alone, would look much less odd if all the windows on that wall were the same
 
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Bov

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Hi both, thanks for your replies and information, that’s really helpful. I’ll press on for the preferred solution of no cover strip
 
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Split that half and full brick to seat the lintel level with the frame.

No need for a photo, I can tell you how that cover piece idea will look - bloody awful.

The lintel work is not covered by FENSA or suchlike. Make sure they fit a proper lintel, not a piece of old angle iron.
 
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Split that half and full brick to seat the lintel level with the frame.

No need for a photo, I can tell you how that cover piece idea will look - bloody awful.

The lintel work is not covered by FENSA or suchlike. Make sure they fit a proper lintel, not a piece of old angle iron.
finally. some sense.
 
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Bov

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Thanks Woody. I'm completely new to this, so I'd just like to make sure I'm clear on what you meant on a few things please.

Am I right in thinking you mean to put the lintel where the blue line is, move the solider course down (reducing the height to 2 bricks rather than 2.5) and then putting in a new row of bricks above the soldier course (in red). (I'm happy to reduce the height of the window given it would give a bit more room for a false ceiling inside.)

I had no idea lintel work isn't covered by FENSA. By a proper lintel do you mean something like this:
https://catnic.com/products/lintels/ts90-100?referer=selector

Thanks
 

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Am I right in thinking you mean to put the lintel where the blue line is, move the solider course down
No. This. The joint can be blended in better to minimise the visibility. Or take the soldiers across the bearing

foto_no_exif (15).jpg


foto_no_exif (16).jpg


Yes, use a suitable standard lintel from a lintel manufacturer. Often, window fitters just use a piece of angle iron which rusts in no time.
 
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I had no idea lintel work isn't covered by FENSA. By a proper lintel do you mean something like this:
10mm angle steel is fine as long as it is coated properly and will outlast the thin galv stuff Woody is quoting by about 600 years.
Here is a longer version with welded cleats....
 
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Hmm. This one's not 600 years old. :rolleyes:

Rust expands, stains, angle iron edge has no drip, and is thicker. Why would you use angle iron if you didn't have to? o_O

foto_no_exif (17).jpg
 
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