Cut and cover part of solider course above window

[^woody^]

Ill let all the structural engineers know your concerns and all your buddies that can not apply a couple of coats of paint.

Paint is a cop out. In that situation, the regular expansion and contraction wears the surface, leaving it susceptible to water.

All external steel, especially structural should be at least galvanized, and if necessary a slip plane fitted.

Yes, it's convenient for a builder to pick up some cheap angle, put a coat of gloss on it, only use 75mm or 100mm so they don't need to remove so many bricks, and then leave the customer to deal with the problems in a few years time once the builders guarantee (if any) has expired.

 

[noseall]

Paint is a cop out. In that situation, the regular expansion and contraction wears the surface, leaving it susceptible to water.

All external steel, especially structural should be at least galvanized, and if necessary a slip plane fitted.

Yes, it's convenient for a builder to pick up some cheap angle, put a coat of gloss on it, only use 75mm or 100mm so they don't need to remove so many bricks, and then leave the customer to deal with the problems in a few years time once the builders guarantee (if any) has expired.

Nonsense.

 

[^woody^]

Nonsense

Why would you use angle iron if you didn't have to?

You still have not answered.

We all know why a builder would use the cheaper, easier option, but why should a customer accept it?

 

[noseall]

You still have not answered.

We all know why a builder would use the cheaper, easier option, but why should a customer accept it?

I would say the arrangement in the image is about 3 times the cost of a proprietary manufactured lintel (including fab'). It was specified by a structural engineering company as was the paint stipulation. Not the easy option, not the cheap option but the best option and not just some thin galv tat that you would rush to fit.

 

[noseall]

Footnote:

Anyone reading this thread will note the irony of a bloke arguing over the merits of raw steel (painted) who at the same time has recommended the merits of steel beams with ANGLE IRON or plates welded beneath to carry an outer course of bricks.

I'll let the forum decide who is being disingenuous.
lintels over 8ft door - cavity wall | DIYnot Forums
203 x 203 uc steel | DIYnot Forums
bi fold patio doors support...? | DIYnot Forums
bi fold patio doors support...? | DIYnot Forums
Locating a lintol | DIYnot Forums

 

[Bov]

Thanks both. Out of curiosity, is the suggestion I mentioned in post 7 possible? I'm likely misunderstanding, but wouldn't that avoid the need to split any bricks horizontally? Thanks

 

[^woody^]

Footnote:

Anyone reading this thread will note the irony of a bloke arguing over the merits of raw steel (painted) who at the same time has recommended the merits of steel beams with ANGLE IRON or plates welded beneath to carry an outer course of bricks.

I'll let the forum decide who is being disingenuous.
lintels over 8ft door - cavity wall | DIYnot Forums
203 x 203 uc steel | DIYnot Forums
bi fold patio doors support...? | DIYnot Forums
bi fold patio doors support...? | DIYnot Forums
Locating a lintol | DIYnot Forums

Its not getting through is it?

First, take your hard hat off

Second, remove your ear plugs

Third ...

WHY WOULD YOU USE A ANGLE WHEN A PROPER, GALVANIZED COATED LINTEL IS AVAILABLE?

Fourth, Tip of the Day ... when quoting other posts for humourous effect, ensure the situations are the same.

Thank you. I'll be here all week.

 

[noseall]

Its not getting through is it?

First, take your hard hat off

Second, remove your ear plugs

Third ...

WHY WOULD YOU USE A ANGLE WHEN A PROPER, GALVANIZED COATED LINTEL IS AVAILABLE?

Fourth, Tip of the Day ... when quoting other posts for humourous effect, ensure the situations are the same.

Thank you. I'll be here all week.

Lol keep digging.

 

[^woody^]

Lol keep digging.

No problem. I'll stop digging as soon as you give an answer, but TBH I'm taking my shorts and bush cork hat as I think' I'll need them. G'day.

 

[noseall]

No problem. I'll stop digging as soon as you give an answer, but TBH I'm taking my shorts and bush cork hat as I think' I'll need them. G'day.

You dismissed the angle on false grounds. It was wrong of you to do that when you have sanctioned raw (painted) steel in other scenarios.
There is nothing wrong with either method done correctly.

 

[Deleted member 292770]

Lol keep digging.

That’s normally what the boss tells you isn’t it?

 

[noseall]

but wouldn't that avoid the need to split any bricks horizontally? Thanks

Yes.

The only problem with 10mm steel is it can be prohibitively thick. Your joints look like they'd be able to cope though.

 

[cdbe]

Personally, my main concern, given that your builder wants to to try and chop the bottoms off the soldier course bricks (a silly idea) just to avoid doing any brickwork, would be how well he can rebuild it all if you ask him to.
If done badly it could look horrendous, especially with a course of non matching bricks thrown in there

I buy a lot of surplus/miss measured windows and doors that rarely align with course heights so I get busy with the angle grinder.

Chop the back of the brick out, slice a groove in it:

Fit the lintel:

Job done:

What you need to assess, is whether the soldier course and brickwork above is good enough to retain, lintel, and repoint any cracking without the joints looking excessively wide - in your case it looks a possibility.

 

[^woody^]

Very nice

 

[Bov]

Thanks cdbe that's a great suggestion, I'll discuss that with them.