Cut worktop from top or bottom side

[Deleted member 174758]

Does the blade on this seem appropriate for the worktop cut?

NO. In a previous post I recommended a sharp (i.e. new or newly sharpened) fine tooth saw blade - sadly, that is neither of those things. For example on a 165mm saw that might typically be 48 tooth whilst on a 184 or 190mm saw it might be 60 to 72 tooth. The blades would be ATB (alternate top bevel) or possibly TC (triple chip) grind - either will do, but on a fine tooth blade you will normally get ATB by default

 

[Jupiter01]

UPDATE: As per advice, I was planning to order a new blade for my saw today but Screwfix won’t have one until Tuesday. I thought I’d do some test cuts with my old blade and was very pleasantly surprised. The cuts are flawless!

I followed the advice to cut from front to the back.

 

[big-all]

those cuts are quite impressive when you consider the saw blade has all the wording worn off up to the maximum plunge depth
this normally suggests abuse and much smoking off timber when cutting
i would suggest although the top looking like a clean cut the blade may be quite blunt and that can cause blade lean and deviation as the cut is more difficult so pushes the blade sideways and off square so check the straitness and how square the cut is

 

[Jupiter01]

It’s square too as I needed it to be with this small section of worktop

 

[Jupiter01]

Before these cuts, I had ordered one of these. It arrives today.

Can I use this as an all-round blade? i.e. laminates and stud work, etc.
Or do I need to swap blades over?

 

[big-all]

do you have much spare worktop??
if so you can just use the blade you have iff the finish satisfactory then iff it chips get a new blade and have another go