Cutting external skirt corners

[a9blue]

Not Torus or anything just plank, I have a mitre box but as you will know they're too deep and not high enough for a five inch skirt. Any tips would help including the best saw etc as once I've done this I have to do the same on a piece of vinyl wrapped board with razor like accuracy.

 

[Swwils]

Have you considered a mitresaw?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

That or a manual mitre saw. The problem is that a decent manual mitre saw such as the Nobex Proman or Nobex Champion models cost as much as some more basic power mitre saws

 

[^woody^]

There are only two important lines to get right and which will be seen - the top and the front.
So you should be able to ensure that these are correct with a basic wood saw that you have now and just securing tbe piece. But fine tooth saw would be best.

Then if the cut does wander as you progress, it won't be seen, and if the cut is bit proud in the centre or towards the rear, you can sand or plane this down without affecting the top and front cut line.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

... you should be able to ensure that these are correct with a basic wood saw that you have now and just securing tbe piece

...if the cut does wander as you progress, it won't be seen, and if the cut is bit proud in the centre or towards the rear, you can sand or plane this down without affecting the top and front cut line.

Whilst I take your point about this being doable with a sharp hand saw and then cleaned up (sharp block plane), I feel that you should have pointed that it can take a little experience (as well as a perfectly flat sanding board) to ensure that there is no break out of fibres or rounding over of the mitre surfaces...

Any tips would help including the best saw etc as once I've done this I have to do the same on a piece of vinyl wrapped board with razor like accuracy

...and maybe that the technique won't be the best on vinyl wrapped board which also tend to be problematic to plane or sand and are considered best cut with either a powered mitre saw or a guillotine cutter such as a Morso or Ortegueil

 

[^woody^]

Whilst I take your point about this being doable with a sharp hand saw and then cleaned up (sharp block plane), I feel that you should have pointed that it can take a little experience (as well as a perfectly flat sanding board) to ensure that there is no break out of fibres or rounding over of the mitre surfaces...


...and maybe that the technique won't be the best on vinyl wrapped board which also tend to be problematic to plane or sand and are considered best cut with either a powered mitre saw or a guillotine cutter such as a Morso or Ortegueil

Yes the taking care bit goes without saying. But what I was really saying is that a special saw, jig, tool whatever is not really needed, nor is a perfect 45° cut.

The OP could just concentrate on getting the surface cut lines right with minimal tools as that's all that is seen.

The rest of the cut does not need to be flat or perfect, the only requirement is that it's less than 45° so that the front edges touch.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Don't you use Mitre Mate or the like on your mitre joints? I certainly do when I'm dealing with awkward shapes and short segments of skirting (which can be the exception to the rule about inside corners always needing to be scribed - a 50mm long fillet of skirting really isn"t going to move that much) - and to use a mitre adhesive you really do needs proper mitre. In terms of normal outside corners I think a glued joint is always going to resist wood movement (e.g. cupping, etc) to an extent and resist any tendency there might be for the outside mitre to open - and that, too, requires a reasonable joint. Or do you cross nail yours?