Cylinder touch test ?

It's a pity that there isn't something like a sticky topic in the P&CH forum that asks posters with heating problems to fully describe their heating systems at the outset.

Oh. Hang on. :rolleyes:
 
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Under the back bed room floor boards there is a working pump so it cant be a gravity system, and it's possible that I have got the wrong "V" pipe but one does go up and leans over the F&E tank lip.

Going out now to a celebration party so any answers will be tomorrow.

Regards Ravel.
 
How many flow and return pipes connect to the boiler?

I'm just going into the kitchen so I won't be able to read your answer until the kettle has boiled.
 
If it's fully pumped than you may well have "pumping over" in the loft - have a look.
He's already said that he has a 3 port motorised valve so it must be fully pumped. Water going through the coil goes from 70°C to 60°C when the temp within cylinder is no more than 48°C and probably very much less at the level of the coil, so the water must be moving through the coil at a fair rate otherwise the temp drop would be lower.

Maybe he just isn't allowing enough time for the cylinder to heat up. I wish he'd answer all the questions asked. I don't understand why some OPs hold back on critical information even after we specifically ask for it.

Maybe he's got one of those really naff cylinders where the coil is no more than about two spiral rings of 22mm. That would give a very poor rate of heat transfer. Ravel, any markings on the cylinder - BS numbers, brand names, that sort of thing?
 
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Ravel said:
I have poked my finger under the insulation jacket...
I have a hunch that this is the biggest clue, because IIRC it puts the age of the cylinder in the region of 30 years (or more).

This being the case, it's possible that the coil is scaled on the outside. I've seen coils (of a certain type) that resemble an 9" diameter totem pole hewn from the purest limestone - the worst one I ever saw made the cylinder so heavy it couldn't be raised off the ground, even by two of us, and it took half an hour after can-opening the cylinder for the rock to cool down enough to be handled.
 
He says 2 way, not 2 port, so I think that must be a 3 port valve, which must be fully pumped.
 
It's good isn't it? 36 posts on the topic and we still can't really be sure whether or not the DHW circuit is pumped. At least we do know that the OP has had a small domestic situation, and a shopping trip, and a celebratory outing, all within one day.
 
At least we do know that the OP has had a small domestic situation, and a shopping trip, and a celebratory outing, all within one day.
I think that's what's called "having a life"! What would we know about that, Softus?
 
Gentlemen I am leaving this thread now due to extreme frustration at all the misunderstandings and sometimes conflicting information given by different members, also there is ocasionally a hint of disrespectfull comments which is a shame in such a great forum.

I have given all the required details, but the thread has escalated beyond sensibility, when you consider I only initially wanted to know where the heat levels are in a typical cylinder in a 2 port pumped system.

Thanks for all the help which has finaly resulted in me deciding to purchase a new cylinder, and have a qualified plumber fit it.

Regards Ravel.
End.
 
Okey dokey. Here's another one for you to empty:

614126352_54dbb6bd60_m.jpg
 
Let's hope it's the cylinder at fault then not the boiler or something else!

Flick heating off and HW on constant, if the pump run's you know its pumped :LOL:
 

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