damaged laminate floor
- Thread starter Paulboy
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heeelllooo paulboy
need more information is the flooring click or glue type
is it a scrach a dent a trench or a hole what size is the dammage
colour of the laminate is it finnished with real wood laminate on top
have you got or can you get spare planks as nesesery
need more information is the flooring click or glue type
is it a scrach a dent a trench or a hole what size is the dammage
colour of the laminate is it finnished with real wood laminate on top
have you got or can you get spare planks as nesesery
assuming you layed the floor yourself the best answer is probably to replace the whole plank
did you lay the floor yourself!!!
it sounds a bit like a bit of crud may have got in the groove on laying casing a raised edge which is then subject to quick wear
is the dammaged the full thicknes or quite shallow
did you lay the floor!!!!
did you lay the floor yourself!!!
it sounds a bit like a bit of crud may have got in the groove on laying casing a raised edge which is then subject to quick wear
is the dammaged the full thicknes or quite shallow
did you lay the floor!!!!
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you need to remove enough of whatever is holding the edge down which is usually quadrent or the skirting now in general you will have to remove whole lengths to release the next row if you need more help please ask
you can get a patching filler from most places like wickes etc which matches in with the floors reasonably well, dependent on how obvious the imperfrection is. It can be a bit of a sod to use and you need a good supply of nail varnish remover to get a good clean result. (i hate laminate floor, not the look just installing it!)
i thought about filler thermo but as its full depth likely to be a non starter as its on the edge and he is bound to get a bit of movement on the boards but might be worth it if he is likely to dammage boards if he is not experianced refitting them
replacing would be a better option if you can as the filler is a sod to use to get a decent finish on.
Can anyone explain to me when using the click type boards, which have to go in at an angle and then are clicked downwards to get the join, what the hell you are supposed to do when you work up to a wall that has a door with architrave or a radiator. How are you supposed to get the boards in????? Used it once and i refuse to lay the click stuff now.
Can anyone explain to me when using the click type boards, which have to go in at an angle and then are clicked downwards to get the join, what the hell you are supposed to do when you work up to a wall that has a door with architrave or a radiator. How are you supposed to get the boards in????? Used it once and i refuse to lay the click stuff now.
Well, I haven't been beaten yet
You have to work it out where the best place to start, if you have radiator then I would start there. The same goes with door frame and depend which way the layout is. You can slide the click type when it's flat. I will say it's not easy but have to think about it more.
I have glued laminated type but the problem mean you cannot access underneath.
You have to work it out where the best place to start, if you have radiator then I would start there. The same goes with door frame and depend which way the layout is. You can slide the click type when it's flat. I will say it's not easy but have to think about it more.
I have glued laminated type but the problem mean you cannot access underneath.
masona i know what you mean but what do you do when you have rads both sides or doors on each side of the room with architraves? The point im trying to make is its bloody horrible stuff and i think its only been invented for the diy market that walks in a shed on a saturday morning and thinks oh well lay that this weekend, look no glue or mess or hassle..........WRONG!!!
Right you are Thermo!
We have asked several suppliers of the click-system how to install this kind of floor in any area where there are doors on opposite sites. One was so brave to call the manufacturer who told him: hmmm, yes, that's something we are still figuring out. At the moment it doesn't seem possible.
Most advice to cut of the click-system of the last board you have to install))
We have asked several suppliers of the click-system how to install this kind of floor in any area where there are doors on opposite sites. One was so brave to call the manufacturer who told him: hmmm, yes, that's something we are still figuring out. At the moment it doesn't seem possible.
Most advice to cut of the click-system of the last board you have to install
))I think the real reason for these type of flooring is to get rid of the problems with carpet.
I don't have carpet anywhere because 3 member of my family (I always been the odd one out ) have asthma and since then my 2 son's now don't use the inhaler anymore. I have a mixture of ceramic floor tiles, laminated and solid wood flooring. I must admit I do feel a lot healthier not having carpet.
Copy & paste from the Asthma weblink,
Get rid of carpets.
Every time someone walks over a carpet, mite dust is spread into the air, and will take 2 hours to settle. Babies and young children crawling on the carpet are surely especially at risk.
For practical purposes wall-to-wall carpets cannot be cleaned adequately, though steaming carpets thoroughly may help.
Replace carpets with sanded and varnished floorboards, or a vinyl, linoleum, tiled or purpose-made wooden floor.
I don't have carpet anywhere because 3 member of my family (I always been the odd one out
) have asthma and since then my 2 son's now don't use the inhaler anymore. I have a mixture of ceramic floor tiles, laminated and solid wood flooring. I must admit I do feel a lot healthier not having carpet.Copy & paste from the Asthma weblink,
Get rid of carpets.
Every time someone walks over a carpet, mite dust is spread into the air, and will take 2 hours to settle. Babies and young children crawling on the carpet are surely especially at risk.
For practical purposes wall-to-wall carpets cannot be cleaned adequately, though steaming carpets thoroughly may help.
Replace carpets with sanded and varnished floorboards, or a vinyl, linoleum, tiled or purpose-made wooden floor.
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