Damp course injection kit hire

[ottosump]

Hi group, we have purchased a property which look like it suffers from rising damp, I was thinking about hiring an injection kit from one of our local building merchants and doing the job myself. What I would like to know is, does this method work, and can anyone offer an idiots guide to carrying out the process.
Thanks group, Otto West Cumbria

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• ottosump
• 15 Mar 2015
• 1

 

[Burnerman]

I think the answer is, yes it does....under ideal conditions. I asked myself the same question a couple of times and as there was no real alternative, gave it a go.
On one building ( random rubble stone) it was vital that the probes weren't pushed right through the stone blocks - for obvious reasons. When I got it right the solution came oozing through the stone quite nicely but there were a few times where the solution was obviously spraying into space.
On the other building (brick, one or two leaves) the task was simpler, but for the wall with the inner leaf I drilled through the outer leaf to pierce the inner, and then had to block up the initial hole, if you get my drift.
The gear I hired was from Matty Charltons, Hexham.....there were four nozzles, and the holes were 10mm. Sorry I can't remember the name of the solution!
As before, I really couldn't see any alternatives for the properties Inwas trying to sort.
John

 

[gregers]

various methods of doing an injection dpc,yonks back we used to use a spirit based dpc fluid so it would leave a dark band round the base where we had drilled.this was low pressure injection,then when it went over to water borne fluid the pressure went right up somewhere between 100-150 psi.also whether you drill into the pug course at an angle or into the brick itself,if you do go into the brick its 2 holes into the stretcher and 1 hole into the header,if you then need to drill into the inner course after the first injection then redrill using a 12mm bit then use the 10mm bit.
there are creams available now look on the interweb about them.

BUT before you do go down this route,have you actually checked to see whether the cavities(if you have them?)are clear,any outside levels higher then the inside i:e penetrating damp.lots of different things to be looking at before you have to finally inject once you have exhausted the basics then you can look at injection type of dpc.
also bear in mind the internal plaster work MAY have to be removed to about a 1m high,then it needs to be replastered with an additive added to cut down on any salts etc.

OH and also bear in mind there is a lot of talk about rising damp does not exist???
if you do a search on this forum you will find lots of posts on the subject.
including a few of mine where i ask if it doesnt exsist then why do we still use physical dpc/dpm everywhere as to yet no 1 has answered that question.

oh and just for info the pic you posted is wrong,as there is still a breech,the correct way would be to cut back the render do the injection the instal a drip render bead.

 

[baileysufc]

If you do have rising damp have you considered dryzone no need for a pump

 

[ottosump]

Thanks for all the advice guys, the property is a single sandstone wall, no cavity, "dryzone" never heard of it, I'll do a google.
Thanks again, Otto

 

[baileysufc]

Dryzone is a chemical rising damp treatment but instead of a pump the cream injected with a cartridge silicone gun brilliant product used it many times it also carrys a BCA cert

 

[ottosump]

Dryzone looks appealing, tidy & simple

 

[jeds]

Are you sure it's rising damp?

 

[ottosump]

Its what the builder/plasterer told me when he came out to give me a quote for dashing. Not the best of pictures but notice the darkness around the lightswitch, and just over half way down, its cold to the touch and feels damp.

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• ottosump
• 16 Mar 2015
• 1

 

[jeds]

Well, I can tell you for certain that change of colour around the light switch is not rising dampness. The reason I asked is that over 15-20 years of surveying houses I have rarely come across what I could describe as rising dampness. I'm not saying it doesn't exist - as many people believe - just that it is a very rare beast. In the majority of cases (well, effectively all cases really) it is something else. Could you post a photo of the outside.

 

[ottosump]

Thanks John, will do when I call up later..

 

[footprints]

Dryzone is a chemical rising damp treatment but instead of a pump the cream injected with a cartridge silicone gun brilliant product used it many times it also carrys a BCA cert

Sounds like it might suit me I have a cavity wall, only the outer suffers from damp so with luck just a bit of pointing to make good after sealing. Does it stain the brick at all?

 

[gregers]

if the outer skin is damp,then why install a dpc?
its the inner skin you need to be worrying about.
open up the cavities to inspect them and clean them out as deep as you can.

 

[baileysufc]

No dryzone does not stain the brick but sjud only beused after you have tried to solve the isues by other means high ground level outsise or a bridged cavity or dpc poor guttering leaky water pipe previous damp plaster ect

 

[footprints]

Thank you both, it is just about a metre of wall the dpc (asbestos felt) is two bricks above the concrete. I have seen into the cavity when the patio doors were changed and it looked fairly clear.

My concern is rusting of the wall ties they are old and quite a few in our area tend to fail, often see the wall tie van around our way

You can see a difference in wall colour where the damp is so I assume the felt has failed an one point.

Can you make good over the holes or do they have to be left open please?

Sorry to butt in on your thread ottosump, hope my questions are of help to you too