Damp fix / board and skim question

[Gille]

DIY job....... I have a gable wall on my 1930s semi that has a damp issue. Looks to be penetration and condensation problem. I have a plan to fix this but unclear how best to put right the internal plaster. The wall is solid brick no cavity. I was going to take internal plaster back to brick up to the height of the dado rail to give a clean break. Can I just dot/dab and board then get someone in to skim? If so I am best with a specific board type and is there a need for a specific skim?

 

[Gille]

Any thoughts?

 

[Blagard]

If you are going to start removing plaster and plan to dot and dab, it would be best to remove all the plaster and when doing the dot and dab use an insulation backed plasterboard. Be aware the skim will be only as flat and plumb as the board so you need to put it on accurately for a decent finish. Keep the bottom of the board off the floor so you always have a gap there. Skim would usually be "board finish". A lot of people seem to just want a skim on their old plaster so I doubt you will have any trouble finding a plasterer to do just the skim.

You should really see if you can address the damp issue, perhaps the gable is in need of repointing (properly). Condensation will often follow with a damp wall as the heat is leeched away more rapidly leaving a colder internal face.

 

[Doggit]

If you've had a damp problem, then the bricks will be wet, and normal dot and dab will get wet and break off. Normal method is to use a cement render with a waterproofer added, but washed sand rather than builders sand, as it has the salts removed; then you plaster, but don't paint with a vinyl paint, as it can take 6 months to dry out. But if you want a quick job, and monies no issue, then have a look at the safeguard drybase products.