Deadlock Replacement.

yes, the new one will be bigger.

you need a really sharp chisel, to shave away the wood. don't use a hammer or a blunt chisel.

a sharp one will cut it away just with your hand.

about a 3/4" if you need to buy one
THANK YOU SO MUCH! it all works amazing now, just need to get the keys cut now :) Also will get another keyhole escutcheon, the one supplied is very small.
 
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A proper lining will have a groove for it, width varies, measure yours before purchase
These are always 10, 15 or 20mm (standard sizes). You don't see 10mm much - mainly used where two strips need to be installed (e.g certain equipment room doors, etc).

Unless the door is a very close fit you can use the strip with smoke seal, which is a sort of furry brush that looks (and works) like draught excluder.
Fire doors have to be installed with a gap of 2 to 4mm around three sides. If it is properly installed the gap will be just that (door/frame sets are sized to give you 3mm). The "furry brush strip" is a combined intumescent/cold smoke seal strip and bigger suppliers provide "door sets" with 2-1/2 lengths. The stuff can be a difficult to cut cleanly - scissors don't work, chisels can shatter it, but the best tool I've found is a pair of tin snips. A lot of the lads (joiners) use these. The gap at the bottom should not exceed 4mm (current regs)

It is self adhesive.
Yes, well, on heavily used doors they are known to detach themselves. A lot of places like hospitals and universities insist that we also install them with a pin every 300mm. On domestics this shouldn't be an issue unless the door gap is tight (i.e 2mm)

Fit it AFTER painting and any trimming needed
Too right. Having the right size chisel(s) to scrape out the grooves in one pass makes the job a lot easier. I use Stanley FatMax chisels in 10, 15 and 20mm sizes - I think Bahco also makes these sizes as well
 
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