Decking Questions

[RobGra]

Hello, about to embark on installing some decking - around 50m Square.

I'd like views on wood v composite decking please? I've read up on all the pro's and cons for both, however there's nothing like personal experiences!

Also, friend of mine had decking installed last year and the guy who installed it used a Makita nail gun. I'd be interested in opinions of using a nail gun as it would help if I could use a nail gun as my wrist is pretty buggered.

Recommendations for a nail gun would be great too. For wood option of course..

Thanks in advance.

 

[foxhole]

Composite decking if you can afford it no maintenance, no rot

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm with Foxhole on this - composite lasts longer because it doesn't rot. Also it doesn't require annual treatmemt with decking oil or the like to keep it looking acceptable. What recycled plastic and composite can do is bleach out, especially in salt air environments and where it is very bright, but then so can wood.

On the subject of nail guns, I'd recommend taking a look at the newer generation of battery only 1st fix guns such as the guns from deWalt, Hikoki and Milwaukee.

I still use gas nailers (Senco and Rawl), mainly as "loaners", but I have years of experience using those other brands as well as Paslode, Hitachi (Hikoki) and Spit. From that I can say categorically that I don't like gas nailers - they suffer from blackening of the battery contacts, the gas igniters (like a spark plug) can fail, they get gummed up with oil (it is in the gas cylinders to lubricate the cylinder, like a 2-stroke mower), the igniter circuit boards can fail (I find them far less reliable than cordless nailers), the seals on the cylinders need to be swapped out from time to time, the gas needs to be in date (out of date gas can refuse to ignite or gum tje gun up - necessitating a strip down and unscrupulous vendors are known to.offload out ofcdate gas on the unwary), but worst of all nails with gas cost a lot more than nails alone.

All that makes pneumatic (which requires a compressor) or battery cordless models somewhat more attractive. Pneumatc is really a high cost/high volume solution, so as a DIYer it leaves you with cordless. The downsides to cordless guns are that they are larger and heavier than gas or pneumatic nailers, and unless you are buying bare units (because you already gave a cordless battery system) they are more expensive. On the upside they require minimal servicing and I have found mine (DW for 4-1/2 years, then Hikoki) to be more reliable than any gas nailer I have ever used

 

[RobGra]

I'm with Foxhole on this - composite lasts longer because it doesn't rot. Also it doesn't require annual treatmemt with decking oil or the like to keep it looking acceptable. What recycled plastic and composite can do is bleach out, especially in salt air environments and where it is very bright, but then so can wood.

On the subject of nail guns, I'd recommend taking a look at the newer generation of battery only 1st fix guns such as the guns from deWalt, Hikoki and Milwaukee.

I still use gas nailers (Senco and Rawl), mainly as "loaners", but I have years of experience using those other brands as well as Paslode, Hitachi (Hikoki) and Spit. From that I can say categorically that I don't like gas nailers - they suffer from blackening of the battery contacts, the gas igniters (like a spark plug) can fail, they get gummed up with oil (it is in the gas cylinders to lubricate the cylinder, like a 2-stroke mower), the igniter circuit boards can fail (I find them far less reliable than cordless nailers), the seals on the cylinders need to be swapped out from time to time, the gas needs to be in date (out of date gas can refuse to ignite or gum tje gun up - necessitating a strip down and unscrupulous vendors are known to.offload out ofcdate gas on the unwary), but worst of all nails with gas cost a lot more than nails alone.

All that makes pneumatic (which requires a compressor) or battery cordless models somewhat more attractive. Pneumatc is really a high cost/high volume solution, so as a DIYer it leaves you with cordless. The downsides to cordless guns are that they are larger and heavier than gas or pneumatic nailers, and unless you are buying bare units (because you already gave a cordless battery system) they are more expensive. On the upside they require minimal servicing and I have found mine (DW for 4-1/2 years, then Hikoki) to be more reliable than any gas nailer I have ever used

Thanks for both replies. I actually have quite a large but mobile compressor on wheels, therefore compressed air isn't an issue. Theres a Makita compressed air nail gunnon Amazon for £89, but not sure if its heavy enough?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-AF5...eywords=Makita+nail+gun&qid=1627213877&sr=8-7

Ref composite decking; it's awfully expensive and I'm worried about colour fade with no way to recover it...

 

[^woody^]

Plastic decking, artificial grass, pattern imprinted concrete for that completely artificial look, never changing, never inspiring.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The nail gun you linked to is a second fix gun - in first fix Makita for clipped head nails you'd need to go for something like a model AN943. My pneumatic 1st fix clipped head guns are both made by Senco - a 325XP and a 350XP. They are both designed to fire paper collated 30 to 34° clipped head nails. The 325 is used for diaphragm floors (up to about 75mm nails), the 350 fires up to 90mm nails, but is bigger and heavier, which gets significant when nailing 10k plus nails a day. Whilst I have a DW full head gun it rarely gets used because contractors are more willing to supply clipped head nails than full head ones (they're cheaper)

I rarely recommend pneumatics. For a start you really do need to check hoses before use - there are lots of idiots out there who will happily drag runner hoses over sharp edges and damage them - and if they fail a smack in the face from a failed hose can blind. People are also lax about checking and topping the oil level in the compressor sump (run dry andvthe pump siezes, just like a car), oiling the tools before and during use (or using an in line oiler), draining the receiver after use (because water accumulates in there which will rot out the receiver welds over time if left - and 150psi in a structurallu unsound thick walled metal can could go.off like a hand grenade if s joint fails) and then there's the need to clean out the insides of tools probably monthly (because water from the compressed air plus air tool oil eventually clogs the tool with emulsified, creamy gunge). It is better when the compressor is in a workshop and you can fit stuff like automatic drainers and refrig or desiccant air dryers, but you'll never get those on site compressors

 

[RobGra]

The nail gun you linked to is a second fix gun - in first fix Makita for clipped head nails you'd need to go for something like a model AN943. My pneumatic 1st fix clipped head guns are both made by Senco - a 325XP and a 350XP. They are both designed to fire paper collated 30 to 34° clipped head nails. The 325 is used for diaphragm floors (up to about 75mm nails), the 350 fires up to 90mm nails, but is bigger and heavier, which gets significant when nailing 10k plus nails a day. Whilst I have a DW full head gun it rarely gets used because contractors are more willing to supply clipped head nails than full head ones (they're cheaper)

I rarely recommend pneumatics. For a start you really do need to check hoses before use - there are lots of idiots out there who will happily drag runner hoses over sharp edges and damage them - and if they fail a smack in the face from a failed hose can blind. People are also lax about checking and topping the oil level in the compressor sump (run dry andvthe pump siezes, just like a car), oiling the tools before and during use (or using an in line oiler), draining the receiver after use (because water accumulates in there which will rot out the receiver welds over time if left - and 150psi in a structurallu unsound thick walled metal can could go.off like a hand grenade if s joint fails) and then there's the need to clean out the insides of tools probably monthly (because water from the compressed air plus air tool oil eventually clogs the tool with emulsified, creamy gunge). It is better when the compressor is in a workshop and you can fit stuff like automatic drainers and refrig or desiccant air dryers, but you'll never get those on site compressors

Thanks, I'm well used to using a compressor, therefore it's not really an issue.

Not sure what second finish means? If I opt for wood I'd likely only use a nail gun for this job.

Was hoping for more experiences with composite, as I'm completely undecided ...

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Second fix / trim work, e.g. skirtings, architraves, window boards, wainscottinog, etc. In nail gun terms generally 16ga and 18ga in the UK. Nail sizes 25 to 64mm

First fix = structural stuff, e.g joists, rafters, studwork/framing, floor planking, etc. Thicker nails, 2.8 to 3.3mm from 50 to 90mm mostly

 

[sxturbo]

Use stainless composite deck screws for composite.

Composite lasts longer, but dependent on colour retains heat and gets very hot in direct sun light as opposed to wood.

It is double the price of wood.

Its expensive if you make a mistake.

If using nail guns, the 2nd fix nailer doesn't have big enough nails.

Don't use standard nails in composite. Don't use standard deck screws either.

Depending on the make of composite, some don't require screws through the boards and instead rely on clips screws to the joist to hold them in, which gives a much cleaner look.

 

[RobGra]

Use stainless composite deck screws for composite.

Composite lasts longer, but dependent on colour retains heat and gets very hot in direct sun light as opposed to wood.

It is double the price of wood.

Its expensive if you make a mistake.

If using nail guns, the 2nd fix nailer doesn't have big enough nails.

Don't use standard nails in composite. Don't use standard deck screws either.

Depending on the make of composite, some don't require screws through the boards and instead rely on clips screws to the joist to hold them in, which gives a much cleaner look.

Thanks.

My fault for not being clearer. I'd only be using nail gun on wooden decking. Composite usually comes with it's own clamp arrangement. Which is also very expensive....

Ideally I'd like to hear from folk who have had composite for a while.