Dented laminate worktop

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I have a dent in my recently fitted laminate worktop. Proper gutted, no idea where from. Checked after fitting, so it's one of us, not the fitters...

I'm worried it'll need replacing, but hopefully not.

Pics below (complete with euro coin for scale that I found about the place):

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It's only a small dink, but it's cracked the top, so my worry is water damage.


My questions are:
1. What would you do?
2. How do I best prevent water damage (it's right by the sink, so unlikely to be he obvious "don't get it wet")?
3. Is it worth contacting a professional worktop fixer (assuming such people exist), or are they snake oil salesmen..?
4. Anything else.


Thanks in advance!
 
You could probably use some clear epoxy resin to seal it. A small blob, then go over it with a filling knife/blade.
 
Cheers. I have some colourfil, but it's such a small dink, there wasn't enough purchase and it just flaked off. I wonder if epoxy would do better. Ideally I don't want to dig it out more though to create the purchase.
 
To clarify what FMT said we call them "plastic surgeons" or "snag doctors" and most high end construction projects use their services at the end of the job for specialist snagging. The modern equivalent of French polishers. There are several franchise chains in the UK. This guy is the snag Doctor for Leeds-Bradford area, whilst another chain, Plastic Surgeons, run through a national web site. A word of warning - hthe ciat us circa £300 to £400 a day, or part thereof, so check how much they'll cost before booking one

Hope that gets better than null points, @Mottie :LOL:
 
Whatever you try and do yourself it will prove unsuccessful.

You could pay for a "Magic Man" to try and repair it and generally they are very good, but you will be parting with up to £450.

Personally I would have the top replaced, but that may not be straight forward either.

I once managed to burn a worktop, It housed an induction hob and was jointed to the sink run which returned to another worktop "nightmare".
I used a Plunge Saw to cut as close to the joint as possible and took the damaged top out, then clamped a piece of timber flush with the joint line and used very sharp 4 inch chisel to cut out the remaining worktop, cleaned joint with chisel, routered new top, got some bushboard complete bobs your uncle, you'd never know.

All told £300 loss to me.

Speak to the fitters about swapping it.
 
Removal and refitting is such a massive job, unfortunately.. the side is wedged in from 3 sides. It would be tiles back off, whole load of wall repair required.. urgh.

I don't mind particularly how it looks (well, I do, but I'm past that right now), for me it's if I can seal it somehow to stop water getting in.
 
Removal and refitting is such a massive job, unfortunately.. the side is wedged in from 3 sides. It would be tiles back off, whole load of wall repair required.. urgh.

I don't mind particularly how it looks (well, I do, but I'm past that right now), for me it's if I can seal it somehow to stop water getting in.
Pop up socket?
 
you might be able to use a coloured wax stick to fill the crack in the laminate. A heat gun could be used to melt the wax, thereby enabling it to flow into the crack. After, buff away the excess.
 
Not such a bad idea- cut a larger hole to put something in it.
Depends exactly where the damage is on the worktop, magic man may be able to do an invisible repair but I doubt it. The OP"s eye will be constantly drawn to it, whereas as a pop up socket is functional, or even a wireless charging point.

Just options really.
 
As you pointed out the depression is small and will not take a fill, sanding the top layer will muck up the finish so you are left with two options.

1. Make the hole deeper to take a fill.

2. If you have an off cut with similar grain, use a plug / hole cutter and glue in a new plug.
 

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