DeWalt DWE7485 table saw quality issues

[JonBodge]

Hi

After spending a long long time looking at table saws - you tube videos, reviews, specs etc you know the drill - I settled on a DeWalt 7845 table saw. Cost a fair few quid - £406, not as expensive as some retailers - but with nearly everyone raving about its accuracy, etc, I thought it would be a good choice for some basic cabinetry.

Anyway, it arrived today.

I first went about checking how true it is. "Not very" was the result. The table top is not flat (I can see light coming though a flat edge laid across it in various positions), and the fence isn't perpendicular to the tabletop. I was able to set the 90 and 45 degree position and calibrate the width of cut measurement marker easily. However, I am worried about the top and fence.

I could return it but it seems likely the replacement will be just as bad. Not being an accomplished woodworker, perhaps the innaccuracies don't matter? I know it's a "jobsite saw" but the glowing testimonials seemed to make it a sure bet. In one review, a bloke uses one to make a checkquered end-grain chopping board which requires at least some precision. It came out pretty good.

What would you do?

 

[mattylad]

You have 14 days from receipt to inform them if your unhappy with it and a further 14 days to return it if you don't like it.
However if it is not of satisfactory quality then contact the supplier soonest with your concerns.

If the top is not level then it's no good.
Reviews say "first thing to build with is a crosscut sled because the miter gauge is garbage (or buy an aftermarket miter gauge)."

 

[JonBodge]

Yes, I saw that advice. A sled is useful and it can compensate for a not-entirely-level top.

It's a proper PITA returning it, getting another and ending up with the same issue. That's what's bugging me. Maybe I should try it out, see what the cuts are like...

 

[big-all]

i have the 54v flexvolt version and its brilliant had it about 7 years now

 

[JonBodge]

I think the quality has taken a dive since then.

Have you ever laid a straight edge across the table top, or chacked the fence is at 90 degrees?

Thing is, it depends on what you use it for. I'm going for not-quite-perfect cabinetry, but if I were to use it as Dewalt intended - a jobsite saw - I'd be happy.

 

[aveatry]

I have one and have no complaints. If you are cutting tiny bits then maybe the uneven base will be a problem but if you are cutting tiny bits then a sled is a better idea anyway. I built a sled and makes it much better to use.
I have never put a straight edge across the surface to check it actually -I just checked the squareness, a very good thing that is accurate is the fence squareness front and back with the rack and pinion system and the measurement scale is also accurate. Mine was good out of the box but it can be adjusted.
also Saxon blades are your friends and get yourself some extra blades from them that are designed for what you are cutting - teeth count - kerf- hook and angle of teeth. And sort yourself an exit table for longer stuff.

 

[big-all]

I think the quality has taken a dive since then.

Have you ever laid a straight edge across the table top, or chacked the fence is at 90 degrees?

Thing is, it depends on what you use it for. I'm going for not-quite-perfect cabinetry, but if I were to use it as Dewalt intended - a jobsite saw - I'd be happy.

the fence after "tinkering " is 100% and tinkering was about 2mm end to end so minute

never really tried the bed for level as the only highly accurate is 6mm shaves off hardwood using a mdf throat plate with just the blade sized groove or big ripps off timber
i never ever use the mitre attachment as i have a workshop full to play with

 

[JonBodge]

It's easy to set the fence so it is paralll to the blade or tool slots. This I have done. However, you cannot adjust it for perpendicularity with the table top. If you put a set square there you can see if it's at 90 degrees and mine isn't. The solution is to attach another fence to it with shims to correct it, but the table cannot be corrected.

The mitre attachment is pertty useless but I knew that before I bought the thing. It's loose in the groove.

@aveatry the first thing I have ordered is a Saxon blade with a decent tooth count. 100 to be precise. I'm planning to modify my bench to take the table saw in the manner of just about every youtuber out there. It's not going to be legant, just good enough to act as an exit table. The whole thing is a DIY bodgeup anyway, so hacking a corner out of it to sit the saw in is no biggie....

Still don't know if I should accept this saw.... but I will call the supplier tomorrow (Monday) to ask for advice. Ideally I could visit them and try some of their other stock but I don't think they will let me. We will see.

 

[big-all]

It's easy to set the fence so it is paralll to the blade or tool slots. This I have done. However, you cannot adjust it for perpendicularity with the table top. If you put a set square there you can see if it's at 90 degrees and mine isn't. The solution is to attach another fence to it with shims to correct it, but the table cannot be corrected.

The mitre attachment is pertty useless but I knew that before I bought the thing. It's loose in the groove.

@aveatry the first thing I have ordered is a Saxon blade with a decent tooth count. 100 to be precise. I'm planning to modify my bench to take the table saw in the manner of just about every youtuber out there. It's not going to be legant, just good enough to act as an exit table. The whole thing is a DIY bodgeup anyway, so hacking a corner out of it to sit the saw in is no biggie....

Still don't know if I should accept this saw.... but I will call the supplier tomorrow (Monday) to ask for advice. Ideally I could visit them and try some of their other stock but I don't think they will let me. We will see.

i am a bit confused here
you are talking about setting the saw into the bench ??
one off the great things about this saw is cutting a 4x8 sheet down the middle with the fence, meaning the fence rails stick out a hell off a lot that to me would exclude that saw from being set into any confined space as you need perhaps 14" for the rails to extend into??

now apologies iff i have misunderstood

 

[JonBodge]

No, I am talking about ensuring the fence is parallel to the blade, which means in practice aligning both to the slots in the bed.

The issue with the fence is it isn't at 90 degrees to the table surface. This is not adjustable.
The issue I have with the table is the surface isn't flat.

If I return it I think it's likely the replacement will be as bad or worse. Could be better too, who knows?

 

[big-all]

No, I am talking about ensuring the fence is parallel to the blade, which means in practice aligning both to the slots in the bed.

The issue with the fence is it isn't at 90 degrees to the table surface. This is not adjustable.
The issue I have with the table is the surface isn't flat.

If I return it I think it's likely the replacement will be as bad or worse. Could be better too, who knows?

ahh got ya as i say parallel to blade is all i worry about as i dont use the mitre jig as i have options
i am sure it will be possible with a shim here a file there or general honing like you say
anway please let us know how you get on and how you resolve it

 

[aveatry]

I have shimmed my mitre attachment and added a bigger fence to it which helps.

 

[JonBodge]

ahh got ya as i say parallel to blade is all i worry about as i dont use the mitre jig as i have options
i am sure it will be possible with a shim here a file there or general honing like you say
anway please let us know how you get on and how you resolve it

Sure thing.

But although I can sort the fence out, the table top is a different matter. Really it needs fly cutting to get a perfect level finish, but then of course the aluminium would be exposed and start to corrode. Yes, I could paint it. But why should I go to that expense and hassle? It is not a £150 saw, its £400 plus and so I think I should expect some quality.

I have shimmed my mitre attachment and added a bigger fence to it which helps.

If I keep it I will do this. Fence extension in 2080 aluminium extrusion with feed in support and clamps. This improvement is all over YouTube and it looks very worthwhile. Will also shim it for squareness. It probably needs no more than a strip of tape along the top. 1/2 mm.

The only thing in my way is I can't buy the profile in anodised aluminium from Prime, they only do the black painted stuff.

Meanwhile I found a solution to the non perpendicular fence that doesn't entail adding a board to the fence surface. Hooray!

That'll do. Now just the table top to worry about.

 

[JonBodge]

Another little update. I tried the fence with a different square and it looks spot on. So, I suspect my ancient carpenter's set square is out by a little bit. I've ordered a milled aluminium speed square and I hope this will tell the truth.

Also, while messing about with the fence assembly, I tried to use the flip over support as a straight edge to meaure the table top again, but the results were disappointing. Moreover, when this support is in use, it is a little higher than the table top. Another innacuracy... Can't see a way to dial it out yet.

 

[aveatry]

Another little update. I tried the fence with a different square and it looks spot on. So, I suspect my ancient carpenter's set square is out by a little bit. I've ordered a milled aluminium speed square and I hope this will tell the truth.

Also, while messing about with the fence assembly, I tried to use the flip over support as a straight edge to meaure the table top again, but the results were disappointing. Moreover, when this support is in use, it is a little higher than the table top. Another innacuracy... Can't see a way to dial it out yet.

There is a simple way to check squarness but I can not remember it right now -- its that simple
You cut a sheet and then flip it over and run through again or something like that so if its out it will cut again but not if its true