DHW not getting over 60 deg

It's still showing 60 on the led's. I assumed the boiler thermostat would restrict it to 60?
I think you might be confused. The LEDs do not show the temperature of the DHW but of the water circulating through the heat exchanger, which heats the incoming cold water from the mains. The temperature of the DHW is controlled by the LH dial. Ariston advise setting it to the middle of the range. Heating the water to 60C and then mixing with cold water to bring it down to 40C for a shower is pointless; just heat the water to 40. It's different if you have a hot water cylinder with hot water stored for several hours, you do need the water at 60C to prevent legionella contamination.

According to the Installation Manual, the DHW temperature is 36C-56C, depending on incoming water and the position of the LH dial
 
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Thanks, I have turned the DHW temperature down a bit, around #4 as any lower and the LED's never get to 60 with the water flowing. With the shower on max the water temp is just about right but I'll play around with it over the next few days now that the incoming water flow has been reduced as advised earlier. If needed I'll nudge the temp up a touch on the boiler.

Also, thanks for the tip on reducing the water flow at the shower head. Mine is a single position head, not 3 position adjustable, so a bit of epoxy on a couple of holes may also help cos it doesn't half throw a lot of water out.

Cheers

PS does anyone want to buy this spare Mass Flow Rate jobbie the plumbers merchants sold me ;)
 
I give up. Horse has been dragged to the waterhole, but refuses to drink the water:evil:
 
Thanks, I have turned the DHW temperature down a bit, around #4 as any lower and the LED's never get to 60 with the water flowing.
Why are you fixated upon the LEDs showing 60C? It's nothing to do with the temperature of the water leaving the taps; though I suspect that is the temperature the boiler water needs to be to achieve 40C (or whatever #4 equates to). If you turn the HW control down to #3, do the LEDs then show a lower number? Obviously the boiler water temperature will vary with how cold the incoming water is as raising the incoming water temperature from 5C to 40C takes more energy than raising it from 20C to 40C. So 5C to 40C may need the boiler running at 60C, but 20C to 40C may only need it running at 50C.
 
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Why are you fixated upon the LEDs showing 60C? It's nothing to do with the temperature of the water leaving the taps; though I suspect that is the temperature the boiler water needs to be to achieve 40C (or whatever #4 equates to). If you turn the HW control down to #3, do the LEDs then show a lower number? Obviously the boiler water temperature will vary with how cold the incoming water is as raising the incoming water temperature from 5C to 40C takes more energy than raising it from 20C to 40C. So 5C to 40C may need the boiler running at 60C, but 20C to 40C may only need it running at 50C.

DH, boiler needs to ran flat out to achieve stipulated 35 degree C if incoming is single figures.

I sure am puzzled with shower head epoxy modification
 
Why does the epoxy mod puzzle you?

How else do you reduce the flow rate whilst keeping the residual pressure high to obtain a high ejection velocity?
 
Why does the epoxy mod puzzle you?

How else do you reduce the flow rate whilst keeping the residual pressure high to obtain a high ejection velocity?


Because I have a shower that does all that without having to resort to epoxy resin. How do you apply epoxy resin to pliable rubber jets that are on modern shower heads? Will the resin even stick to the rubber? If you do not know what I am talking about, let me know, I will post a picture of said shower head.
 
"If you turn the HW control down to #3, do the LEDs then show a lower number.
Yes they don't go over 40 if it's at #3
 
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Yes they don't go over 40 if it's at #3
Just as I predicted. The boiler water temperature is controlled so it is kept higher than the required DHW temperature (if it was lower the DHW would never reach temperature!!). The combi version of my boiler does the same - the boiler water is always 15C higher than the required DHW temperature.

If you turn up to #5 or #6, I expect the higher temp LEDs will light up.
 
Because I have a shower that does all that without having to resort to epoxy resin. How do you apply epoxy resin to pliable rubber jets that are on modern shower heads? Will the resin even stick to the rubber? If you do not know what I am talking about, let me know, I will post a picture of said shower head.
Another of Tony`s absolute rubbish posts, that backpack must be the size of a lorry with all the shoite that he supposedly carries around
 

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