Disappointed with finish

[chriselevate]

Just wondered what your advice on this would be.

I’ve had a plasterer dot and dab boards to two walls (taken back to block) and overboard the ceiling.

The finishish is very smooth I’m just really disappoint that the where the ceiling meets the walls and in the corners of the ceiling, the lines are 100% straight. They are 2-8mm’s out in places.

Surely with good prep work, fresh boards and a skim they should be pretty much perfect?

Really dissapointed and not really sure what to say/do.

Thanks for any help/advice you can give.

 

[Doggit]

2 to 5mm out isn't really an issue; 8mm is pushing it a bit, but only unreasonable if it's in a noticeable location.

Have a chat with the plasterer, and tell him you're not completely happy with it.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks. I think my issue is that it’s on the ceiling and I specifically mentioned to him I wanted it perfectly plumb hence the overboarding.

My reason is that it’ll be really noticeable when I paint my walls a colour and my ceiling in white. With this colour scheme I’ll see the “lines” more obviously with it being “out”.

I guess it’s all solvable by another skim would you say? But if this plaster can’t do it right the first time it’s perhaps worth finding someone else? Obviously I’ll discuss it with him when he comes round to collect his money this morning. Any advice what to say/how to phrase it?

Thanks for the help/advice

 

[roy c]

If your not happy don't pay him, He came into your house to do a job of work that you are not happy with, tell him that you have a problem with it and want it finished properly. At the end of the day if you wanted you could put a nice coving up...

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks for your advice guys. He's been round and pretty said that it is what it is and if the 40 year old ceiling joists are out then it'll mean that the joins between the ceiling and walls will also be out. There are a few things that concern me though. The lumps and bumps are at the joist lines which is where he'll have joined two boards together. I asked him if her could have taken out those lumps and bumps as he was plastering it. I said that I'd have thought that using tapered edged boards this would have helped. He told me he doesn't (and never does) use tapered boards he always uses square edged boards. I find this odd because I've thought that one of the points of the tapered boards was there to run the screws and take the scrim so it gives the ability to get a nice flat finish.

I can't fault how smooth the walls are I'm just disappointed that after the mess and cost of taking the walls back to block work and the ceiling overboarded it's achieved a worse finish that I started with.

What are you thoughts on using tapered boards over square edges and what are your thoughts on going back to block and reboarding a ceiling to get a customer an A1 finish?

Thanks again, really appreciate it. As you can tell, I'm pretty fed up with the situation and the thought of it all having to come off in order to get it done correctly now. I'm guessing this would sort it if done properly or do you think I'll be getting into a worse situation by going down this route?

Thanks again for the help and advice.

 

[pete50]

I'm not entirely sure what else the people on this board can tell you. If you don't like it then don't pay him until he has put it right. If you think he isn't competent enough to do that then tell him and get another plasterer in.

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks but I’m asking the following questions I’ve asked above for some second opinions and advice. If you’re not to give then hopefully someone else can.

My questions are around the tapered boards vs the square ones he’s used. Whether back to block and overboarding should be able to achieve a perfect join. And any advice as to what to do now.

Thanks

 

[stevethespreader]

tapered boards give you the option of a skim coat or tape and joint and yes you do get a flatter finish with tapered boards because if your boards are out by a mm or 2 it is compensated by the taper, your boards are only 2mm out so its not a big problem it can be done with easifill, i reboarded one of my lids and before the reskim i leveled the boarding out with bonding and a straight edge its perfect but as i say your ceiling can be done with easifill , and its also important to get a good painter who can cut in im not very good at cutting in so i would always get my mate to do it who is a painter and who also can bend the lines with the paint when needed

 

[stevethespreader]

tapered boards give you the option of a skim coat or tape and joint and yes you do get a flatter finish with tapered boards because if your boards are out by a mm or 2 it is compensated by the taper, your boards are only 2mm out so its not a big problem it can be done with easifill, i reboarded one of my lids and before the reskim i leveled the boarding out with bonding and a straight edge its perfect but as i say your ceiling can be done with easifill , and its also important to get a good painter who can cut in im not very good at cutting in so i would always get my mate to do it who is a painter and who also can bend the lines with the paint when needed

i would just like to add that the tapered boards would make the boards straighter if the boards were not level by a mm or 2 they would not compensate uneven joists just thought i would make that clear

 

[Doggit]

You normally use tapered boards when you'd not going to skim the wall, and straight edge board for skimming afterwards. The screws will sink to just under the surface of the plasterboard, and then the plasterer will apply scrim tape and go over it. A good plasterer will either make sure that the plasterboard goes on level to the next one, or add more plaster to level it between the first and second coats. His comment of "it is what it is" tells you that he's done the job, and that's where it stays. You can either pay him, and never use him again (and tell him that) or tell him that you know it's not been done properly, and you don't feel he's justified in receiving the full payment. This one's a judgement call on your part, but I certainly wouldn't get him to redo any of the work, as he either can't, or won't do it properly.

 

[stevethespreader]

i used to work for a partition company that company and all the other companies would always use tapered boards whether it be for skimming or jointing you get a stronger and better finish with tapered boards and if the specs changed half way through a job it did not matter because with taper you can do both

 

[roy c]

I used tapered edge boards when I re-built my bedroom (In my albums "New bedroom") and l plastered the joints so it was flush with the boards. I did the ceiling and walls and when I was ready to skim it all I painted the joints with "unibond) and skimmed over the lot.

 

[phatboy]

Depends what was agreed....

- I fitted tapered boards everywhere, as it helps keep the scrim tape straight too!
- If the joists are uneven, did you agree with the guy that he would fit extra beams to straighten out the ceiling? I imagine you assumed he would do whatever was necessary, and he assumed he could bang new boards up and make the best of it.

All in all, a tough one

 

[xd400]

Were the boards completely skimmed or just at the joints? I've only used tapered boards where mud is just used at the joins and feathered off. No need if it's completely skimmed.

You'll rarely find joists that are level but most won't make a difference to the eye as over the distance you lose it. If you're talking some very old houses they can be really out and you'd normally have to pack out with bonding or strips of board under the surface board.

It all depends on how much this guy charged at the end of the day. Did you give him prior warning on how you wanted the finish?

 

[Doggit]

Did you give him prior warning on how you wanted the finish

That shouldn't really be relevant. You employ a plasterer to do a good job, not an adequate one, nor one charged cheaply for a cheap job, unless warned that that's all he'll get. And if there are issues, he should warn you as he goes, or at least discuss it at the end of the job. To just tell the client that it is what it is, shows a lack of regard to an ongoing reputation.