DIY Drayton Wiser

[Paul Carbery]

Hello,

Firstly, thank you all for the responses. I hope I dont overdo it with the photos.

Terryplumb - no it is not a new build - 2006 approx - we have just moved in a few weeks ago, just before xmas. It was rented before that so probably the boiler hasnt been serviced in years.

IanMcd - yes it is an Ariston

Photos show
1. Under boiler - piping - 2 photos
2. Hot press - zoning valves(x2) + emersion switch + top of cylinder
3. Outside wall where boiler exhausts - yes! looks like it has been doing this for a while
4. Thermostat on wall
5. Pressure on boiler about 20min after it had turned off

Thanks again - I am going to get the boiler serviced ASAP.

Any other advice would be welcome.

 

[terryplumb]

The flexible ,braided ,silver hose below the boiler is your filling loop .
It is open ,turn the black handle on the end of it 1/4 turn to close it. Water should stop flowing outside.
You then need to drain water from your c/heating to drop pressure to 1 bar.
You may have other issues ,that will surface when you turn heating on ,if water continues to run outside.

 

[rbranco]

You can get a zone valve cut into the pipe going into HW tank on the side (top one). Not hard but you would need to drain system and a 22mm pipe cutter.
You could add a separate timer for the cylinder and cyl stat. All quite easy really if you understand the wiring. May be idea you get it wired as HW priority as well.

 

[Paul Carbery]

Cheers Terryplumb....done that....will keep an eye on pressure

Yea, it went from about 2.3Bar to 1.8 Bar when I turned the key on the filling loop valve (while the heating was on)
After the heating was switched off it went to about 1.5 Bar and then after a few minutes down to 1.0Bar

edit - 15 mins later
Looks like I have a leak (probably expansion vessel)- went all the way down to 0.3Bar...not sure if I can get an expansion vessel for such an old boiler - damn

 

[Paul Carbery]

You can get a zone valve cut into the pipe going into HW tank on the side (top one). Not hard but you would need to drain system and a 22mm pipe cutter.
You could add a separate timer for the cylinder and cyl stat. All quite easy really if you understand the wiring. May be idea you get it wired as HW priority as well.

Thanks for that advice rbranco......As soon as I get the time and courage I might go ahead with this as a DIY project. Could you set my mind straight on a few things?

I am thinking of going for a Drayton Wiser setup by doing the following

1. Place the programmable control centre outside the hotpress
2. Remove the wires from the thermostats to the zoning valves and wire directly into the control centre - get the needed mains from the zoning valves
3. Place wifi TRVs on all but 1 or 2 radiators in the house (2 bathrooms)
4. Not sure if I need thermostats aswell, seeing as the TRV's are programmable (will have to research this more)...but will have one in main living room as it has a stove
5. Leave boiler on constant on state and let zoning valves and TRV's determine when heating comes on

Appreciate your comments

 

[rbranco]

Cheers Terryplumb....done that....will keep an eye on pressure

Yea, it went from about 2.3Bar to 1.8 Bar when I turned the key on the filling loop valve (while the heating was on)
After the heating was switched off it went to about 1.5 Bar and then after a few minutes down to 1.0Bar

edit - 15 mins later
Looks like I have a leak (probably expansion vessel)- went all the way down to 0.3Bar...not sure if I can get an expansion vessel for such an old boiler - damn

As the expansion tank is internal you may not be allowed to work on boiler yourself depending on your local regulation over there.

If you can not get a replacement then it could be removed and replaced with external one connected to the system.

 

[rbranco]

Thanks for that advice rbranco......As soon as I get the time and courage I might go ahead with this as a DIY project. Could you set my mind straight on a few things?

I am thinking of going for a Drayton Wiser setup by doing the following

1. Place the programmable control centre outside the hotpress
2. Remove the wires from the thermostats to the zoning valves and wire directly into the control centre - get the needed mains from the zoning valves
3. Place wifi TRVs on all but 1 or 2 radiators in the house (2 bathrooms)
4. Not sure if I need thermostats aswell, seeing as the TRV's are programmable (will have to research this more)...but will have one in main living room as it has a stove
5. Leave boiler on constant on state and let zoning valves and TRV's determine when heating comes on

Appreciate your comments

Personally ide not worry about wireless TRVs, two zones and separate HW valves are good. You could look at the Evohome system as that you can step by step upgrade and its compatible with opentherm boilers or standard older ones if needed.
You would need to check if your boiler has requirement for minimum flow rate and if so the zone valves will cause issue if you do not have a ABV fitted.

Either that or look to replace boiler with one that has Weather Compensating controls like Vaillant/Bosch/Baxi etc etc, then use their own controls or Opentherm ones if the boiler supports them.

 

[terryplumb]

Did you check the PRV pipe outside?
It shouldn't let any water out now ,if it does ,even a dribble ,the pressure will continue to drop.
Sometimes ,once a prv has opened, it doesn't then fully seal,and needs attention or replacing.
Tie a plastic bag around the pipe outside ,see if it collects water.

 

[Paul Carbery]

Cheers again for the advice Terryplumb.....
Bad news......I tied a small food bag around it and it half-filled with water in a few hours.
The pressure at the moment (with the heating on) is at 1.5 Bar...I suspect it will drop when the heating goes off....

So, are you saying that it is the valve that needs to be replaced (i.e. the one with the black handle). And if so, might that help with the pressure?

Once again, thanks for the advice

 

[rbranco]

Cheers again for the advice Terryplumb.....
Bad news......I tied a small food bag around it and it half-filled with water in a few hours.
The pressure at the moment (with the heating on) is at 1.5 Bar...I suspect it will drop when the heating goes off....

So, are you saying that it is the valve that needs to be replaced (i.e. the one with the black handle). And if so, might that help with the pressure?

Once again, thanks for the advice

The reason they left the valve open was probably because they knew the boiler was loosing pressure and stopping and it was a cheap fix, but it could also be what broke the boiler, who knows which came first.
Question is if there is a leak somewhere, the PRV is leaking or pressure vessel is pooped, you will need to get each one checked and fixed.
If you are allowed within IE rules, check if there is air pressure in the vessel or does water come out when you press the valve.

 

[terryplumb]

No ,the black handle is part of your filling loop (which is for occasional use to top up pressure) .
It's your pressure relief valve (PRV)that needs attention . It's within your boiler.

 

[Paul Carbery]

Thanks Guys.....I just rang a local serviceman; he says all the houses in the estate have/had the same cheap boiler and he has replaced loads of them. I am thinking of replacing it when funds allow.
BTW the boiler is working and is providing heat for us for a few weeks now. Quote for replacement of expansion vessel is almost €500 and new Baxi boiler is €2200. Not sure getting it fixed is worth it.

Should I be leaving the filling loop open in the meantime?

 

[terryplumb]

There may be no need to fit a new expansion vessel. All we know so far is what you have told us and shown us a picture of.which transpired to be ...
1. Open filling loop.
2. PRV passing
3. Excessive pressure in system ,which you would get with the filling loop open.
The EV may just need to be re charged.
The prv is passing now ,with lower system pressure . So it needs to be sorted and the EV charge checked.

 

[Paul Carbery]

Thanks Terryplumb........with the lockdown, only emergency callouts are allowed....
BTW pressure seems to be steady at 1.5Bar with heating on and 1.0 bar with heating off for last 3 hours.....very strange!

How am I going to repay you for your great knowledge?

 

[terryplumb]

Buy me a lottery ticket ,if it scoops the jackpot I will pay for your boiler to get fixed and you can send me the rest