Do you have to stagger ceiling boards?

[snadge]

we are going to board the ceiling today hopefully,

do you HAVE to stagger the boards?

I ask because ive got one board up and one ready cut with ceiling light hole cut out but its not cut for staggering - course i can just use it in somewhere else but just thought i'd ask

 

[trowelmonkey1]

yes you do, same idea as brickwork, the joints then spread any stresses hopefully avoiding any cracks along the joints, they should also be fixed with the bound edges at 90 degrees to the joists using 38mm drywall screws or 60mm if over-boarding.

View media item 26187
not the best example as you can see the joists behind but it shows you how to do it, the joist run left to right.

 

[snadge]

ok thanks trowelmonkey1 will do

we have 40mm Drywall screw Cross Philips Bugle (black) are they OK?

 

[trowelmonkey1]

fine mate, extra 2mm will only help.

how big is the hole you've cut for the light? if it's only an inch or so just scrim over it before skimming, other wise you can buy thistle plasterboard patches which stick on, failing that repair it with a piece of board and some timbers

Untitled

• trowelmonkey1
• 21 Jul 2010
• 3

 

[snadge]

ahh i see , thanks

its 45mm , already worked it in hehe, cut in half for a 'stagger' board, just waiting for her to come in to help me with the rest of it - im making a prop to have a bash myself but dont think i will manage as theres lights/cable to pull through holes too - the boards are 6x3ft so im gunna try it

also, iam dot+dab the walls which ive never done before but seen it done on site - thing is we have all 6x3ft boards and im wondering if its gunna mess it up not having full size boards.. im gunna have to put the cut at the top - is it a case of sitting them on feet (cut offs) so theyre a few inches of floor and propping up with bits of wood until the adhesive takes...(also ensuring they are level) ?

thanks for your help

 

[trowelmonkey1]

you should be fine with a prop using 6x3s, i do plenty on my own at that size, sometime the odd 6x4, is tricky getting cables through though, i could recommend a couple of tools for the job but if your missus is coming to help soon there's no point.

6x3 for the wall isn't ideal if you've got 8ft ceiling height, as 1 full 8x4 wuld go floor to ceiling , it'll be trickier getting them level but use plenty of adhesive and along straight edge to get it plumb.

just stick the boards onto a cut off on the floor, doesn't need to be inches 12.5mm is fine.

 

[snadge]

you should be fine with a prop using 6x3s, i do plenty on my own at that size, sometime the odd 6x4, is tricky getting cables through though, i could recommend a couple of tools for the job but if your missus is coming to help soon there's no point.

6x3 for the wall isn't ideal if you've got 8ft ceiling height, as 1 full 8x4 wuld go floor to ceiling , it'll be trickier getting them level but use plenty of adhesive and along straight edge to get it plumb.

just stick the boards onto a cut off on the floor, doesn't need to be inches 12.5mm is fine.

cheers

P.S. its a kitchen just so u know..

the reason I said inches was i read somewhere that they have to be a couple of inches off the floor...sommit to do with rising damp?? - also we are replacing the floor with new boards too - do you think we should do this before dot&dab? - I dont think I will have any problem removing old floor and installing the new

 

[trowelmonkey1]

be easier i think and less chance of damage to the boards of you do the floor first.

not sure where you rad that rising damp thing, reason to life them slightly is so they don't suck up any water on the floor, if you have rising damp then i wouldn't be dabbing boards on but thats a whole different subject.