Dodgy Downlights: Best way to replace?

[333rocky333]

Problem with multi output transformers doing 4 lights is that sometimes the inrush current trips the mcb when you turn them on, though some are now softstart to reduce this

Switch mode power supplies sometime limit the output lead length to 1 or 2 metres for technical reasons so in a large room could be a problem siting the unit to prevent this.

Fwiw, i knew what you meant by LV and the term LV is widely used throughout the lighting industry for 12 volt lighting, whether right or wrong, I dont think that will ever change

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I personally think it is important that anyone asking questions regarding ELV, LV and HV. Need to be aware of what they are working on and the definitions of each be understood, just because stockist, trade suppliers and their assistance do not have grasp of this, does not mean that we in the trade can not spread the good word to hopefully inform others better.
I personally wasn't having a go, just intrigued that op seemed to suggest that as a profession they worked on LV and HV systems, so wondered why they did not recognize a difference between LV and ELV?
For me unless the location dictated a 12V (ELV) equipment has necessary, I would 9/10 go with 230V/240V (LV) supply on with LED lamps.
If 12V (ELV) were required or prefered, I personally prefer the integrated units if floor-ceiling void allows.

 

[pjcomp]

.. 12 volt types give a better colour rendition and have a longer life.

Debatable. Colour is subjective and will vary with room decoration

You do need a transformer though ... You only need one however, no point in having a separate one for each light.

One unit for four lights means single point of failure. One per light means that if one fails there are still three lights working.

I would always go for 240V downlights as then there is only the lamp to fail and need replacing. 12V means there is a transformer/SMPS/driver to also fail.

pj

 

[JohnW2]

I personally think it is important that anyone asking questions regarding ELV, LV and HV. Need to be aware of what they are working on and the definitions of each be understood, just because stockist, trade suppliers and their assistance do not have grasp of this, does not mean that we in the trade can not spread the good word to hopefully inform others better.

It really is a very unsatisfactory mess! As as general concept, I cannot disagree that it is laudable to 'spread the good word' about correct terminology, but in this particular context, I think that this is probably as likely to confuse as to assist, given that "manufacturers, stockists, trade suppliers and their assistants" so commonly use 'incorrect' terminology.

It's obviously in relation to lighting that this issue most commonly arises, and it would probably be most useful to give pragmatic advice, rather than explain the 'correct' terminology. The best advice of all would probably be to ignore words and just look at, and talk about, the voltage. As for the words, despite the 'correct terminology'. I very much doubt that one would ever find a lighting product labelled 'Low Voltage' (or 'LV') if it required a 230V supply. Hence, if a lighting product is labelled/sold/described as 'LV' it is therefore almost certainly what you would call ELV (and what 'low voltage' means to the general public in normal everyday usage of English).

My greatest worry about all this mess has always been that much of the general public interpret 'low voltage' as indicating the absence of any danger. IMO, whoever (was it IEC?) originally invented the 'correct terminology' gave far too little thought to well-established everyday usage of language and the potential hazard to the general public they were creating by the terminology they decided upon.

Kind Regards, John

 

[bernardgreen]

If you want to go LED best to use 240 volt types. There is no advantage to 12 volt ones and you will have to get a special LED driver.

There has to be a driver for every LED lamp. In every LED lamp there is a current limiting driver that controls the current through the LED element.

A current limiter working on 12 volts is easier to design and build than one that works on 230 volts. Hence for similar priced items the 12 volt drivers are more reliable than the those on 230 volts.

The best option for LED lighting is a 230 to 12 volt transformer ( a wound one and NOT a switch mode power supply ) feeding lamps that work on 12 volt AC /DC supplies.