Recessing Uplights and Downlights into Shelving Unit

Joined
6 Apr 2006
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Location
Derby
Country
United Kingdom
Hi.

I want to build some box shelves into an alcove, basically using a simpler design of picture 1 (attached below).

I want to recess some downlights and uplights into the unit (see picture 2). They would both be recessed into the top shelf of the unit (shelf width approx. 40mm)

What would be the best downlights to use? I'm tempted towards some 10w 12V halogens (the transformer could sit discretely on the top shelf as it is way above eye level). Do halogen downlights like these need 'open' backs to prevent overheating?)

What would be the best uplights to use? Would I be able to use halogen spots again? Or would there be a problem with dust landing on the halogen bulbs because they're pointed upwards?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Image 1 (I found this on brightoncarpentry.co.uk):
Image 2:
 
Sponsored Links
You would be much better off with LED lighting. Any form of halogen lamp that's bright enough to give off enough light to be useful will also get far too hot. Perhaps not so much a worry about the wood itself, more whatever might get placed underneath the lamp that could be flammable - i.e. books!

Recessing everything will be a problem, as any conventional downlight will require far more than 40mm for the lamp & fitting to sit in. You could consider surface mount lights (those using LEDs or perhaps GX53 CFL lamps), some manufacturer's fittings only protrude by 20mm or so and should be fairly inconspicuous. I guess you could even recess such a fitting if you made a large enough rebate into the wood to provide adequate ventilation around the fitting.

Another option to consider is a T2 fluorescent batten hidden behind a wooden skirt/plinth in the same style as the rest of the shelves. It will provide a very even light distribution along the length of the shelves, and T2 fittings are relatively small and easy to conceal.
 
What about something like this?

Cool running, F-marked fittings, and only require a shallow void
 
Cheers for the replies...

Seeing as how the top 'shelf' is way above eye level, I am now thinking that I could leave off the top half of the shelf, and then still recess MR11s into it for my 3 downlighters?

Which leaves the uplighters, which I would probably then use 2 surface mount fittings as suggested by electronicsuk...

Would it be a problem to have a GU4 in these uplighters - given that dust etc. would fall on them because they are pointed upwards? What about an LED?

Thanks again
 
Sponsored Links
Seeing as how the top 'shelf' is way above eye level, I am now thinking that I could leave off the top half of the shelf, and then still recess MR11s into it for my 3 downlighters?

If you really wanted to, but you will get some spill from the rear of the fitting, which may draw the eye towards it. It would be important to ensure there are no accessible live connections, too.

There's also still the heat issue with MR11 halogen lamps, so it would depend on the distance to the nearest combustible surface.

Which leaves the uplighters, which I would probably then use 2 surface mount fittings as suggested by electronicsuk...

There's also the GX53 plinth fittings kindly linked to by Mr. RF.

Would it be a problem to have a GU4 in these uplighters - given that dust etc. would fall on them because they are pointed upwards? What about an LED?

Perhaps, but it would take a long time to get to a dangerous state, and you probably would have cleaned them before then. LEDs run cooler so dust buildup would be less of a problem, but some form of fully encapsulated fitting would be a better option in any case.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top