Door lining size question

[5teves]

Hello,

Ive recently had a door linning installed but noticed after it had been fitted that the one side of the lonning is not sitting inside tbe rebate, its about 4/5mm on the inside making the opening a little smaller.

Apprantly the walls were not straight he says hence the workaround.

Ofcourse to compensate this we could just trim the door a more or alternatively could trim back the protuding brick and push the lining back into the rebate.

What would you guys recommend i do? Im going to had the linings painted so that going to add a few mm too.

 

[foxhole]

Depends on the door type , some only allow a few mm for trimming. Is this a new doorway or existing?

 

[Celeronmanuk]

I'd much rather have the lining at the proper width if the masonry could be trimmed.

 

[Diver Fred]

Picture please. Not sure of your issue.
Is the lining a factory made one or made on site? Are the walls plumb? Is the lining inside faces plumb?

 

[^woody^]

Linings should be plumb and square! Not on thepiss and then trimming a door to match it

 

[5teves]

Lining is plumb and square.

Its a old house and the opening is not very plumb hence the reason why insteads of widening the opening by stripping the bricks back he shortened the lining... so now the verticle side of the linings are not in the rebate of the top horizontal lining

Its only 5mm in, so not sure what i should do... take it off strip the wall back or leave it....

Getting sofas in and out of that room is a pain as it is, i dont think 5mm is a major differnce so not sure if its worth the hassle

 

[^woody^]

Potentially plane the back of the lining if it's a few mm?

But if it is all square and true, it's whether its worth it or not.

One thing if you leave it, is whether the door can be reduced by that much without affecting the door edge lipping. It depends what doors you will be fitting

Another, is that if the jamb has now been cut and is not in the recess on the head, if it is moved and then fits the recess does that mean it goes upwards and there is a gap at floor level? Will it need a new jamb?

 

[5teves]

Potentially plane the back of the lining if it's a few mm?

But if it is all square and true, it's whether its worth it or not.

One thing if you leave it, is whether the door can be reduced by that much without affecting the door edge lipping. It depends what doors you will be fitting

Another, is that if the jamb has now been cut and is not in the recess on the head, if it is moved and then fits the recess does that mean it goes upwards and there is a gap at floor level? Will it need a new jamb?

Thanks Woody,

We decided to go for a 33 inch opening in the end,
So today i took out the old wood lintel and replaced it with a longer concrete lintel.

Next step is to cut the brickwork back for increase the opening for a 33inch door. Thats not going to be fun i imagine.

Im trying my best to minimize dust, but wondering whether instead of using a cutting disc (which won't go all the way through anyway) i could just score it with a disc and do the rest of the business with a breaker?

Never tried it this way before... any tips please?

 

[Celeronmanuk]

I've generally either stitched drilled or cut new openings. Saves risk of making bricks further back lose which a breaker might. Just dealt with the dust which is epic if cutting.

 

[5teves]

Thanks, will try the stitch drill method....

Will let you know how it goes