Door mechanism voltage question ?

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Hi , I’ve got a Beko wme7267w

machine thinks door is open and won’t start , I bought a new door mechanism but fault persists , if I bypass door mechanism then machine works fine , my question is I have 100 volts between live an neutral at the door mechanism , is that the correct voltage ? (The harness is fine) do I have a possible board fault ?
 
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Is the actuator on the door ok & making the switch close? Where or how did you bypass the door lock/switch?
 
It’s a brand new switch supplied by Beko , when it didn’t solve the problem I bypassed it by unplugging it and putting a link between live and common and the machine now works , it’s making me think I have an issue with the neutral (I have 100 volts between live and neutral , I cannot find a service manual for this machine so I don’t know if that is correct
or it should be 240 volts) or that when the door is closed it is not correctly operating the switch (I don’t think there is a test for that )
 
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If it works by linking it out at the plug, then the only thing that can be happening is that the switch isnt' closing/making when you shut the door? Surely you can test the switch with your meter that your measuring volts with.
 
Zero ! Checked neutral for continuity back to the control board and it’s good , so looks like a possible control board fault then ? Confusing part is that if I bypass the actuator and put the machine into test mode all the functions work ! Not sure I am brave enough to test the neutral in the back of the control board as it’s so small I might short something out
 
Just spotted the new actuator and old actuator have different numbers on them (only one digit different) however I’m pretty sure it is the correct actuator and is for this model washing machine
 

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It’s a brand new switch supplied by Beko
" that when the door is closed it is not correctly operating the switch (I don’t think there is a test for that )"
I think you are over complicating this problem. You need to do a continuity test between the 3 terminals on the switch, 2 will probably conduct with the switch un-actuated & 2 with it actuated, which you can do with assembly out of the machine. Each pair should switch from conducting to not conducting when the switch is operated.
You then need to put it back in the machine & ensure opening & closing the door gives you the same results.
As magic mushroom says if shorting the leads out when live makes it the machine work then it cannot really be any other problem.
 
Sound advice , I’m at work right now (I am an electrician so I should be able to fix this ! Lol) I will have attempt number two this evening when I get home
 

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