Drain cover in middle of bathroom floor

[longdogs]

Can't see a problem with the bath being over the chamber except for bath end panel, battening etc.

Is it worth getting a quote to move it?

 

[gavinda]

Ummm keep it easily accessible. Check my post at top of page. I needed access to my sewer as I had a little furry decker problem. It looks like a simple fix. What you can't see is the £3000 oak floor I had to chop to access it.

Nowt like hindsight.

 

[smp50]

Hi - thanks for all the replies so far. I've taken some more pictures, here's the latest:

Surrounding tiles removed and wood padding/covers lifted up:

A corner, one of four screws shown:

I am at the end of a terrace and here's a sneaky picture of my neighbour's garden. This looks to be right in line with the one in my bathroom:

I'm looking at vinyl tiles currently, a good option? They'd be cheap enough to cut out to get access if required. I'll probably be putting ply down first and will cut and arrange it so that one piece can be unscrewed and pulled up to access the drain. Does that sound alright?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Either cut your tiles along the line of the frame to allow cover + tiles to be lifted as one, or make sure you have spare tiles to make good any damaged if cover is lifted. Hopefully you'll never need to lift it, but law of sod says the month after you finish there will be a problem and you'll need to lift the cover.

Maybe worth lifting and checking all is well before you cover it over, especially if you plan to lay tiles over the join between cover and frame. If you do, I'd refit the screws with a smear of 'Coppaslip' to allow for easier removal should future need arise.

 

[longdogs]

It would be a good idea to see if you can lift the cover now before you carry out any work. Also a good idea to apply some grease around the inside lip and also along the screw threads.

 

[smp50]

It would be a good idea to see if you can lift the cover now before you carry out any work. Also a good idea to apply some grease around the inside lip and also along the screw threads.

You're right, I should. So I just remove the screws and pry it up? Will try tomorrow and report back...

If don't reply again then send someone in after me.

 

[Newboy]

Remove the screws but don't pry it up - you will more than likely damage the frame/lid before you lift it (due to the depth of the lid).

Once removed, the screw-holes allow insertion of a lift key

http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.608013587946275570&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0

If you are going to leave in situ and tile over then I would suggest the best way is to latex to the edge of the lid - DO NOT allow latex into the gap between the lid and frame or you'll never get the b8gger out again.

This should enable you to get a surface level with the surrounding floor then tile to the frame and tile the lid. You'll be left with the metal frame visible.

Alternatively, vinyl tiles across the frame and lid but, again, don't let adhesive into the gap.

 

[smp50]

Remove the screws but don't pry it up - you will more than likely damage the frame/lid before you lift it (due to the depth of the lid).

Once removed, the screw-holes allow insertion of a lift key

http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.608013587946275570&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0

If you are going to leave in situ and tile over then I would suggest the best way is to latex to the edge of the lid - DO NOT allow latex into the gap between the lid and frame or you'll never get the b8gger out again.

This should enable you to get a surface level with the surrounding floor then tile to the frame and tile the lid. You'll be left with the metal frame visible.

Alternatively, vinyl tiles across the frame and lid but, again, don't let adhesive into the gap.

Thanks very much, good job I didn't just snap some screwdrivers trying to lever it up.

What is the "latex" you refer to, something to level the floor with? I'm hoping to just put ply down but I would consider some kind of liquid stuff instead. It seems like a bit of an art to get it right, though, not sure how well it would work for me.

The inside area of the lid is about 30mm below the floor level, does it matter at all how I fill this? Three layers of wood (chipboard and ply) did it before but they're wet and manky now, will discard.

 

[mogget]

Latex floor levelling compound I think.

 

[Newboy]

Sorry - me being lazy! should have said latex levelling compound.

30mm is too deep for standard compounds, you can either use granite chippings mixed with the compound or something like this.

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod4433/section1059/Ultra-Level-It-One-Self-Levelling-Compound.html

If you're not confident about getting using it then go down the route you were planning - the last thing you need is to accidently glue the lid in!

 

[smp50]

the route you were planning

You see no issues with ply? It sounds a lot easier to met, I've read so many "it didn't work" or "we did it wrong" reviews about self-levelling compound. I'm waiting for some replies over in the flooring forum, will be a few days yet before I'm in a position to do anything.

 

[mogget]

I've had no problems with levelling compound provided it is mixed exactly according to the instructions on the bag (Mix with stirrer in drill). The Wickes one says to mix with sharp sand for deeper fills. Also if it is going onto something porous, use pva first.

 

[smp50]

I've had no problems with levelling compound provided it is mixed exactly according to the instructions on the bag (Mix with stirrer in drill). The Wickes one says to mix with sharp sand for deeper fills. Also if it is going onto something porous, use pva first.

Hmm. I don't know why I'm so worried about it, I guess that if it sets wrong then I'm really in trouble and I'll have to chip it all off again which is a hell of a job.

The rim of the drain cover is actually at or perhaps slightly below the level of the concrete floor, so I suppose I'd have to build up a barrier of some kind to stop it flooding the joint. I suppose it will be quite tricky to get that neat and flush with the in-fill for the interior of the lid area.

I just had a go chipping off the tile adhesive and the floor itself comes apart more easily than the adhesive. But I don't know if I can put ply on such a rough and uneven surface (due to the adhesive) without levelling it in the first place anyway!

Damn floors, why do we need them anyway?

 

[mogget]

Damn floors, why do we need them anyway?

I often think a skyhook would be most useful!

If I were doing the job I'd take the cover outside, level it, then fill it with the compound and let it set, then refit and build it up with a couple of layers of vinyl tiles. But there is always more than one way to do a job. It may be possible to loosen the adhesive with wet rags laid on top for a couple of hours.

 

[smp50]

Damn floors, why do we need them anyway?

I often think a skyhook would be most useful!

If I were doing the job I'd take the cover outside, level it, then fill it with the compound and let it set, then refit and build it up with a couple of layers of vinyl tiles. But there is always more than one way to do a job. It may be possible to loosen the adhesive with wet rags laid on top for a couple of hours.

Thanks, sounds like a good way to do it.

I used the wrong terms, I think - I meant to convey that the frame or surround of the entire hatch, i.e. the part fixed into the floor, is at or slightly below floor level. So it unfortunately doesn't provide a nice raised lip against which SLC could settle. Or in other words, if I poured SLC today it would all immediately run down between the rim and the lid of the hatch assembly.