Drayton Digistat 3 to Salus IT500

[Tay7]

My digistat 3 has decided the room is 38 degrees today so im guessing its internal stat is knackered.

I'm considering the Salus IT500 in replacement just to control the CH side as a direct replacement. How does the wiring differ between the two? Ive not taken off the digistat yet but I seem to remember it gets its power solely from batteries and thus only has two wires behind it.

I'd like to have the IT500 receiver where the digistat is and have the actual IT500 unit loose to carry around.

Anything else to consider other than the wiring mentioned above?

 

[Tay7]

Got this behind the digistat...... I would appreciate some advice on what goes where on the IT500 and I assume I power off the boiler during installation?

 

[flameport]

The existing Drayton is battery powered, the new Salus requires a mains supply.
There may be mains power available at the existing thermostat position, as there appears to be at least one unused/taped up wire. However there is no way to know without a lot more information, such as where the cable is connected at the other end, type of system, boiler, etc.
It is also usual to fit such devices near to the boiler or wiring centre as that will have all of the required connections available.

 

[snes]

Please, before you commit to Salus - consider alternatives. They may be pricier, but there is generally a sound reason for that.

Could save you from a world of pain......

 

[Tay7]

Ok cheers.

Im open to anything tbh and perhaps just another digistat would be easier!

Im a fairly experienced diyer but never done CH controls before.

 

[JohnD]

Honeywell are better.

 

[ianmcd]

As Snes says pay a little bit extra and stay away from the Solus, before doing anything I would buy 2 new Duracell batteries and try them in the thermostat and reset it , for all they cost you have nothing to lose, worst case scenario you have spare batteries for your remote control for the TV, I have had success before just changing batteries, dont buy cheap poundland ones though

 

[Tay7]

Tried batteries mate. As you say, first obvious thing to look at.

 

[Tay7]

Anyone with answers to the wiring?

I have red and black connected as pictured with a white taped up and a loose 'earth'.

 

[ianmcd]

look at the wiring diagram in your own pic you have a common and a switched live you have no neutral and no earth only a switched pair red and black

 

[hertsboilers]

Anyone with answers to the wiring?

I have red and black connected as pictured with a white taped up and a loose 'earth'.

Honeywell CM901 or CM907. ErP Class 4, the same as Drayton Digistat 3.

Your red wire to A, and the black to B.

 

[Tay7]

Finally getting round to this now and I'm going with a Nest.

Before I do this, does the following sound about right?:

In my original pic above red (C) and black (switched live) trace back to a junction box at the boiler. Fused switch below it with ring in/out and power to boiler on the switched side.

In the actual junction box above the switch, red/black join to become brown and blue respectively on to the boiler cable and there is also an earth and a cut black unused in this boiler control cable (which cant be seen in the pic)

I plan to connect brown to 2 on the heat link and blue to 3. I'll then use the original red/black for the 12V from T1 & T2 to the actual Nest location where the digistat was.

Anything else to consider?