Drayton Mid Position Valves again!

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Hampshire
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I changed the valve a few years ago because the actuator became faulty. It started emitting a whirring clicking noise continually when the hot water was calling for heat only.

The result was that the valve was not fully hard over to HW and so a little hot water got to the radiators too making them warm when they should be off! Changing the actuator sorted this out - until now!

The actuator has gone wrong and doing exactly the same thing again.

Looking at the various forums I recognise this problem many times, so why are Drayton still making actuators that don't seem to last more than two years? Is this a recognised issue in the profession?

What to do - get another actuator or get a better make of valve? What other manufacturers will fit as a replacement without altering the plumbing?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Daniel Thanks

As far as I am concerned it is not sticking. I can turn it quite easy with pliers and manually isolate water and/or heating.

With the actuator removed (and still clicking) I have also put a screwdriver in slot (one that engages with valve) and forced it towards hot water but it will not stay there and moves away clicking still!

Exactly the same fault as with the old one - I still have it with a note in the box describing the fault - exactly the same!
 
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Thanks 45years.... for confirming that I can fit that as a direct replacement. It's more expensive, but I don't want another cheap actuator that fails again in a couple of years (false economy).

What I think is the problem is the circuit board in the actuator. The clicking noise is the micro-switch turning on and off rather than staying in one firm position.

I think this happens due to the board not being a tight fit - it slips into a groove in the housing. Something wears over time and when the board can move a bit (due to slight pressure from spring in switch) it allows the switch to oscillate on and off - hence the clicking noise.

Theory says it must be possible to make the board a better fit - which is what I tried - and then something wore again and the fault started again.

In my opinion the slackness of the actuator on the valve body also allows movement and this might be what causes the wear in the first place?

I will post again when I fit the new valve.
 
I can turn it quite easy with pliers and manually isolate water and/or heating.
If you need to use pliers to turn the spindle, the valve is sticking. It should turn very easily using your fingers.
 
Thanks D_H

As I said to Daniel I don't think it is sticking - but I do have a niggling doubt in my mind that it might be a bit stiff. Will try with my fingers tonight but I feel it is not as easy to turn as you suggest.

What I have not mentioned is a year or so after installing the first valve (the type that did not separate into two halves), I had to replace it because the valve WAS very stiff and not isolating the two water circuits properly. That is how I ended up with the type with a replacement actuator. So in 8/9 years I will have changed the valve itself and two actuators subsequently!

Hence my desire to try a different manufacturer.
 
I can understand your loss of faith in the current brand and would change brand if I had the same experience.

Honeywell valves do have a better reputation.
 
Valves with a removable head will always have a little 'float' between the body and the actuator. As they are not made to extremely fine tolerances, this is necessary to avoid applying too much pressure on the actuator.
I know someone will tell me that the Honeywell is fixed, but separate one and lok at the slot in the actuator and the operating pin. The float is built in.
 
:D
Last weekend I replaced the Drayton for the Honeywell one '45yearsagasman' mentioned.

To the touch, the Honeywell is a Rolls Royce piece of engineering - but time will tell. It is all metal and comes as one robust piece. It also purrs when it changes position compared to the Drayton.

As an aside, I now have a small weep from one of the Pump isolator valves. This is from the spindle of the valve where it comes through the body. These are Pegler fitted as new 9 years ago and I expected better. However it looks like the weeping might stop as it is vey slow and dirt/verdigree may stem this. I will observe before draining down again to replace!

Thanks all. :D
 
I would have but unfortunately there is no gland nut! It is the 90 degree turn ball type - guess a gate valve would have been better choice.
 

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