Drayton Zone Valve Actuator

[SMcGregor]

Hello there

I was wondering if someone could please help.

My 'Drayton Zone Valve Actuator' (ZA6) is not shutting off once the timer clicks off, although the black switch at the top has clicked to the off position. I have to then move it back to the left, hold for a second then when it clicks back the system stops. It is temperamental because it shut off this morning ok.
Do I need to replace the Zone Valve? If I need to, can I do it myself (is it quite easy) or should I get a heating guy in.

Thanks very much for your time and help anyone that gets back to me.

Cheers
scott

 

[kevindgas]

there are 2 types of this valve
1has a fixed head and the other a detachable head.

the first would require a drain off of the heating system to replace the whole thing
the second you can change the head only but make sure the valve spindle moves freely

just replace each of the 5 wires like for like i:e brown - brown grey- grey etc.

 

[SMcGregor]

there are 2 types of this valve
1has a fixed head and the other a detachable head.

the first would require a drain off of the heating system to replace the whole thing
the second you can change the head only but make sure the valve spindle moves freely

just replace each of the 5 wires like for like i:e brown - brown grey- grey etc.

Thanks for your help.

I'm unfamilair with the terms could you please descibe what the valve spindle is?

Many thanks.

 

[OilLecky]

What he is saying is: the valve assembly is made up of two parts. "The Actuator Head", which is the cubical box with the electrics in and "The Valve Body" which is the brass mechanical valve. The spindle is inside the valve body and it should move freely. (It has a very small range of movement and must not be forced.)

See if you can remove the Actuator head from the valve. If so the head should move freely when you operate the electrical controls. Also try to move the spindle, which is now sticking up where it joins with the actuator head. you may need to use pliers but be VERY gentle!!

Also see: -
http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uksupportingdocuments.aspx?id=1504#

 

[D_Hailsham]

just replace each of the 5 wires like for like i:e brown - brown grey- grey etc.

The OP said it is a ZA6 actuator. This has 6 wires and is only used on 28mm zone valves, which implies it is a pumped heating/gravity hot water converted to C Plan.

I had a C Plan at my last house and the synchron motor in the actuator used to go every 5 years or so - cost about £18 from B&Q, which is cheaper that £45 for a new actuator.

If you can't hear the motor working when the valve opens - hot water on and cylinder thermostat turned from min to max, then the motor has gone.

 

[OilLecky]

D-Hailsham is quite correct. It is probably the motor. If you are at all a DIY person then remove the Actuator head from the Valve and if nothing happens when you operate the controls or if the motor sounds rough or the actuator sticks, SWITCH OFF THE ELECTRICAL POWER and remove the actuator head cover. Then see if things are mechanically sticking or the motor is duff.

 

[SMcGregor]

just replace each of the 5 wires like for like i:e brown - brown grey- grey etc.

The OP said it is a ZA6 actuator. This has 6 wires and is only used on 28mm zone valves, which implies it is a pumped heating/gravity hot water converted to C Plan.

I had a C Plan at my last house and the synchron motor in the actuator used to go every 5 years or so - cost about £18 from B&Q, which is cheaper that £45 for a new actuator.

If you can't hear the motor working when the valve opens - hot water on and cylinder thermostat turned from min to max, then the motor has gone.

.........................................................................................................

Sorry I havn't replied sooner but I was away on holiday,.... anyway thanks very much for you help!