Dremel/drill router

[oswaldthegreat]

Hi, I'm a complete noob when it comes to stuff like this
I need to cut some abstract shapes out of roughly 20-25mm pine, but I don't have any kind of router, and I can't get one because they're too expensive. What I was wondering is if it is possible to use a drill bit on a rotary tool as a makeshift router tool? Of not, is there a way to cut these shapes with common hand tools like a coping saw?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

What I was wondering is if it is possible to use a drill bit on a rotary tool as a makeshift router tool?

Only if you want to rearrange the layout of your fingers...... A drill bit is for boring holes. It does not cut in a sideways motion. A router cutter us designed to cut in a sideways motion (which is what you require for cut-outs). A Dremel can be used as a router on thin materials, but it is highly advisable to use it in a router base. Even then the depth of cut is very limited because the Dremel is very low power and the maximum collet size is limited to 1/8in (router cutter shanks are normally 1/4in and larger). A proper low cost router is probably a better proposition - more power, greater choice of cutters, etc

If not, is there a way to cut these shapes with common hand tools like a coping saw?

Probably your best choice. Drill a starter hole, thread the blade through, attach and tension the blade and you're away. Fret saws work better, but that's just more cost. If you need blades, avoid the really cheap ones (e.g. Silverline) and go for a better brand such as Pegas, Olsen or even Irwin

 

[Nozzle]

For what it's worth, you can get a cheap router for about £40 - I just bought a clarke one and it's perfectly adequate for "re-sizing" of some T&G Floorboards I had to do. If Lidl have some in stock, you can pick one up even cheaper!

Nozzle

 

[Dave54]

If you have only a few to do then as you say a coping saw, or fretsaw if you need a deeper throat. (As I've just seen JobandKnock has already said! )
I use a piece of 12 mm ply with a "V" cut in one end and the other end clamped to the bench to support the workpiece. The saw cuts on the downstroke.
If you have a lot to do, then either an electric scroll saw, or if the curves aren't too tight you can get "scroll" blades for jigsaws. If you are cutting small pieces don't rely on hand holding for the jigsaw though. You don't want your fingers near the blade.
ETA. I've just come back from Lidl. I saw they still had some of these left.
http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=21501
Don't know how well they work, but could be another alternative?

 

[oswaldthegreat]

Thank you all for your helpful answers, I think I'm going to have to use hand tools because I don't even want to spend 30 pounds on a router lol . I do actually have a hand fret saw, but every time I use it the blade breaks, even on 6mm or less thick materials. I don't know if I'm just going too fast, but every time I slow down the saw hardly cuts through the material at all. As I say, I'm a complete noob who only uses tools like these for small scale hobbies, so I haven't got much experience with thicker wood.

 

[Burnerman]

A coping saw with Eclipse blades, maybe?
Keep the work low in the vice, both hands on the handle......it doesn't really matter in which direction the blade teeth go.
John

 

[Dave54]

As Job and knock says, you need decent blades. Let the tool do the work. Don't force it. Make a simple rest for cutting as I described above. There are plenty of "how tos" online.
That's it really. It's not difficult once you have done a bit. I used to make furniture, and used to prefer to make any bits of fretwork that were wanted with a handsaw. Same with piercing metal which was needed occasionally. Different saw, but same basic technique.

 

[oswaldthegreat]

Thank you all, I'm going to try and find better coping saw blades and go from there .

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm going to try and find better coping saw blades and go from there .

I don't know how far away you are, but in Devon there's Axminster Tools who sell Pegas coping saw blades as well as the Bahco blades. The Bahcos may be available locally to you, and I reckon that they are somewhat better than the Eclipse or Stanley blades. As I said before don't touch the cheap Chinese stuff like Silverline, Blackspur, etc. Horrid! The Pegas blades, however, are probably the best ones on the market

 

[Burnerman]

Pegas blades.....never heard of those! I second Axminster tools - brilliant firm!
Use tat blades, and your work will never succeed......once again, the Orient strikes back
John

 

[oswaldthegreat]

I'm going to try and find better coping saw blades and go from there .

I don't know how far away you are, but in Devon there's Axminster Tools who sell Pegas coping saw blades as well as the Bahco blades. The Bahcos may be available locally to you, and I reckon that they are somewhat better than the Eclipse or Stanley blades. As I said before don't touch the cheap Chinese stuff like Silverline, Blackspur, etc. Horrid! The Pegas blades, however, are probably the best ones on the market

Thanks, yeah as my profile says, I am actually in Devon, but if I do get some of these blades I'll probably order them online.
Also, I was just wondering if there was such thing as a 'deep' coping saw, kind of as deep as a hand fret saw?

 

[Burnerman]

Try www.technologysupplies.co.uk
They do a Stanley deep throat coping saw for less than a tenner.
John

 

[oswaldthegreat]

Try www.technologysupplies.co.uk
They do a Stanley deep throat coping saw for less than a tenner.
John

Thanks.

 

[Dextraneous]

Op, let us know how you get on It's nice to hear about people who are willing to spend time using hand tools slowly and carefully to produce crafted work. Good luck and best wishes to you