Drilled into wire

[JohnW2]

Well, they would be a lot worse if they were not the exact size for the wire being crimped and vice versa.

Sure - but that's true of any crimps and any tool.

So, are butt-crimps not a good idea in the first place?

As I always say, from my very non-expert position,I've never been particularly comfortable with them - but who am I to know, given how widely used they are?!

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

The HEX crimp dies I'm used to are a proper HEX shape and the only difference being the seam between the 2 halves of the dies shows.

While on BT I had a hydraulic crimper on my toolkit which went up to 630mm². More recently the non Hydraulic version I've used stopped at 150mm² but crimping a cable that size requires a lot of pressure and therefore long handles. For some reason I haven't gone into the VEE & PIN type described earlier don't seem to need the same pressure but produce a less attractive finish, to date I've not been aware of any difference in reliability of the finished product. Another version being a VEE & PAD which for some reason a lot of people refuse to have any dealings with although I've not identified any problem.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

For what it';s worth, if I did it, I would probably be inclined to use something which was essentially 'non-liquid'(at least, very viscous) - like some sort of epoxy 'putty', or maybe Araldite glue (rather than resin).

Milliput would be perfect for that. I haven't checked it's suitability insulation wise, but does that matter? It is only intended to provide the mechanical protection, over the top of other, more suitable insulation.

 

[JohnW2]

Milliput would be perfect for that. I

That's the sort of epoxy 'putty' I was referring to

haven't checked it's suitability insulation wise, but does that matter? It is only intended to provide the mechanical protection, over the top of other, more suitable insulation.

I very much doubt that it is even remotely conductive, particularly once set/ cured (I would guess an 'excellent insulator').

If it were a little conductive, that would obviously only matter if it could come into contact with bare conductors (i.e. no 'adequate insulation') - which may or may not be the case, depending upon the type of 'electrical connection' within the resin (with many/most commercial 'resin joint kits', the resin presumably would come into contract with bare conductors).

Kind Regards, John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I very much doubt that it is even remotely conductive, particularly once set/ cured (I would guess an 'excellent insulator').

I would assume so, but the manufacturer doesn't mention it in the specs.

If it were a little conductive, that would obviously only matter if it could come into contact with bare conductors (i.e. no 'adequate insulation') - which may or may not be the case, depending upon the type of 'electrical connection' within the resin (with many/most commercial 'resin joint kits', the resin presumably would come into contract with bare conductors).

True. In fact I think we may have arrived at a useful fix, should the need for one ever arrive.

 

[JohnW2]

I would assume so, but the manufacturer doesn't mention it in the specs.

Well, they do mention that it is 'electrically insulating', but I agree that there is no easily-findable 'spec' which quantifies that ...

It is:

• Self hardening
• Non shrinking
• Tough and durable
• Sets underwater
• Electrically insulating
• Water, heat and chemical resistant
• Highly adhesive to most materials
• Moulds like putty - sets like rock

Kind Regards, John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Well, they do mention that it is 'electrically insulating', but I agree that there is no easily-findable 'spec' which quantifies that ...

I've used it, to repair a pair of earbuds, where they T, and one ear side was coming out of the T, plus the hook for winding a vacuum cleaners cable on. It takes quite a bit of mixing, easier if warmed up first. Then it takes 24 hours to fully set up, and it sets up very hard.