My
used to be calibrated every 6 months by one employer whereas my hex crimpers were not.
Drilled into wire
- Thread starter cawright1
- Start date
Sponsored Links
They look great, will get some, thanks. What do you mean by "cover with capping"?
Fair enough - but, as you have been 'warned', they are very probably not categorised as 'maintenance free', and therefore may not be suitable/compliant for installation in non-accessible locations (e.g. 'plastered in').
Kind Regards, John
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2023
- Messages
- 339
- Reaction score
- 70
- Country
I feel at bit guilty suggesting them now as they aren't maintenance free, but whats the other options?
Replace cable is obviously the best option but not always easy.
Fit box with blank plate, but who wants that.
Sponsored Links
Were it me, dealing with this, I would solve it with a soldered repair.
Carefully split the outer grey, add a double length of adhesive type heat sleaving, to one end of the broken conductor. Strip both ends, then find an extra piece of the same sized conductor, long enough to overlap both of them. Bind the new bit of copper in place, along side both ends, along the entire length of bare copper, with 5amp fuse wire. Apply soldering iron and solder, then finally - heat shrink first length over the top, then a second long piece over the top of that.
Tuck other two cores, plus repaired core, back in place in the outer grey, then add a good wrap of PVC tape, overall.
Carefully split the outer grey, add a double length of adhesive type heat sleaving, to one end of the broken conductor. Strip both ends, then find an extra piece of the same sized conductor, long enough to overlap both of them. Bind the new bit of copper in place, along side both ends, along the entire length of bare copper, with 5amp fuse wire. Apply soldering iron and solder, then finally - heat shrink first length over the top, then a second long piece over the top of that.
Tuck other two cores, plus repaired core, back in place in the outer grey, then add a good wrap of PVC tape, overall.
For what it's worth, so would I, if I really couldn't find a way of replacing the cable, and didn't want a blank plate or suchlike staring me in the face.
I am quite uncomfortable with buried crimped joints, particularly of solid conductors - at least, if they were created with something like any tool I have.
Kind Regards, John
Totally wrong, I know, but many times I have found block connectors several decades old buried in plaster and still perfectly functional...
Same here - but I need not tell you that, even if both of us (and undoubtedly many others) have seen that done, and remain 'satisfactory' for very long times, it certainly is not something that one should do!
Kind Regards, John
When an underground armoured cable gets damaged, it gets repaired with a special resin joint which basically is a plastic enclosure with screw connectors and resin poured over.
No free air there.
Why can't we have something like that for repairing T+E cables in walls?
No free air there.
Why can't we have something like that for repairing T+E cables in walls?
Nowt to stop you devising something DIY.. I don't recall using screw connectors, just crimps, though larger cables. All you would need is some sort of plastic formwork, to contain it, and some quick set Araldite.
If, as I presume would be the case,one did it in a wall with the cable/joint 'vertical'), it might not be that easy to stop the resin falling/running out before it set.
That issue aside, if one were prepared to create a big enough hole in the wall, I suppose there';s no reason why one couldn't use a commercial 'resin joint kit', although whether it would qualify as MF to the satisfaction of BS7671 would presumably depend upon the nature of the actual electrical 'joints'.
Kind Regards, John
You are over-complicating it. Any tubular, flexible plastic, could be used for the form-work, it needn't be of a much larger diameter than the original cable. I suspect, that just painting the resin around the joint, might well be enough.
Maybe.
I also suspect that your suspicion may be correct,but not inevitably. I suppose it depends on how liquid the resin is - bit if the 'formwork' were not totally filled with resin (i.e. no air pockets) it would tend to run downwards under gravity, leaving an 'air pocket' at the top, potentially leaving things up there only very thinly (if at all) coated with resin.
For what it';s worth, if I did it, I would probably be inclined to use something which was essentially 'non-liquid'(at least, very viscous) - like some sort of epoxy 'putty', or maybe Araldite glue (rather than resin).
Kind Regards, John
I have never seen any of these that can be used on an in-line connector in the middle of a fixed length of cable. Do you have an example of such a tool?
I have one which can be used to fit bootlace ferules to the ends of wires but if I used it on an in-line crimp in the middle of a cable I wouldn't be able to remove the tool afterwards.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
