Electric cooker and gas hob from single flex outlet?

[alexandicity]

Hi all!

I am installing an electric oven and a gas hob where previously there was an all-in-one all-electric hob/oven unit.

In the wall, I have a nice big 6mm^2 cooker radial circuit, going via an appropriate isolator switch, down to a flex outlet. This setup is perfect for the electric oven. But the gas hob (to my surprise!) also needs to be wired in for the ignition spark to work.

I'm not worried about loading, since the outlet available is suitable for 2x the load of the oven and hob combined. But I am concerned about the practicalities of wiring two devices into one flex outlet. Some options I see:

1) Wire both appliances into the same Flex Outlet (easiest, but dubious for regs)
2) Wire the flex outlet into a junction box/terminal block (with adequate rating) and split the flex into separate cables for the oven and the hob (I imagine OK?)
3) Wire the oven in, then daisy-chain the wiring connection on to the hob (probably a Bad Idea from a regs perspective)

Can anyone suggests which would be the most suitable way? Or if there is a different approach that's best?

Ta!

 

[LearningSpark]

You could try one of these.
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate

 

[alexandicity]

Hi LeaningSpark, thanks for the suggestion. I've seen these on this forum before That's the sort of thing I had in mind with option 2 - although I was thinking of something less heavy-duty, since I'll be passing no more than 10A

 

[ban-all-sheds]

But the gas hob (to my surprise!) also needs to be wired in for the ignition spark to work.

Why were you surprised?

How did you think it got electricity to make sparks?

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

The first gas stove I ever remember used a flint which was operated as you lifted the lighter out of its holster, and then used that to light the gas. Ah, progress.

 

[EFLImpudence]

They still do if the OP doesn't want to wire it.

or THESE

 

[riveralt]

Hi LeaningSpark, thanks for the suggestion. I've seen these on this forum before That's the sort of thing I had in mind with option 2 - although I was thinking of something less heavy-duty, since I'll be passing no more than 10A

I don't understand your reply since in your original post you seem to have settled on option 2 - anyway.

The click jb is ideal for what you describe - it fits over the original back plate and only slightly protrudes further than a standard cooker connection unit.

I assume that you are simply following the oven and hob manufacturer's instructions anyway.

BTW if your oven and hob pilot are not going to exceed 10A why not just convert the cooker connection unit to double gang socket and put two appropriately fused plugs on your appliances?

 

[EFLImpudence]

I suspect the OP is 'worried' because it is a 45A accessory.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My worry would be whether a cable large enough to be used on that circuit would be small enough to fit into the hob terminals.

 

[alexandicity]

Thanks for all the responses!

ban-all-shed: yes, in the wall it is 6mm, but the actual flex cable I have currently dangling out is 2.5mm T&E which fits fine As for the surprise - I thought they were piezoelectric ignitions, or possibly battery powered ones - definitely these exist and are used

EFLImpudence: not quite - my concern is that I don't wire it up in a "proper" way - the load, even if it could conceivably one day be a 45A device, isn't too much of a worry Also, very clever on the alternative idea. I'll call that "Plan C".

riveralt: Not at all! I'm happy to implement the best solution whichever it may be My gut feeling is that option 2 is the best, but I'm not sure. However, it seems that a junction box is a perfectly valid way to go about it, so I'll do that. 13A socket would be an option, yes - I always felt that the FO units were "neater" but that's mainly an aesthetic thing. Double socket would be tricky since I'd need to chisel out more back box space, which is messy.