Electric cooker connections

[Wadman]

We are changing a built-in gas cooker for an electric version.
The gas cooker was plugged into a flush 13A socket as it only requiured a few amps to drive the display. We had the foresight when the house was built, to have this socket wired individually with large current cable.
I am looking for a replacement cooker switch and 13A socket unit, to fit the existing flush box. I have looked at several units but none seem to allow for a hard-wired cooker connection on a flush socket.
Can anyone identify the unit I need please,
Wadman

 

[Diyisfun]

http://www.shopwiki.co.uk/45A+COOKER+CONNECTION+PLATE

About 10 down is the outlet, but you will also need the switch.
The general way for this is the switch is above the worktop & then the cable is trunked down to the outlet.

 

[wotan]

Try google, there are loads of options for what you want.

Wotan

 

[ColJack]

post a picture of the existing set up.

what size cable did you have put in?
what rating ( in W or KW ) is the new cooker?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

We are changing a built-in gas cooker for an electric version.

 

[Wadman]

Thanks to all for answers.
However, it still does not solve the problem.
The cooker is about 6Kw so about 25A, and so the 30A cable feed is OK.
The original setup is a flush mounted non-switched double socket.
I want to replace said socket with a unit with a cooker on/off switch and a single 30A socket. As the replacement socket is flush to the wall how does one take a lead from terminals BEHIND the flush mounted panel to the cooker, WITHOUT chasing cables etc. I thought something suitable must be on the market.

 

[securespark]

Sorry. "About 6kW" is not good enough... How much is the total load exactly?

 

[sparkyspike]

Is the socket above or below the worktop level?

You would normally have a cooker switch (can be a double socket sized one) above counter and a single outlet plate below, behind the cooker.

What is the arrangement you have?

 

[ColJack]

you mean something like this below the counter?

View media item 10929 View media item 10930where the item on the right can be a cooker outlet plate or a 32A single cooker switch if you prefer..?

if it's above the counter, then you need to chase a cable in to below the work surface

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As the replacement socket is flush to the wall how does one take a lead from terminals BEHIND the flush mounted panel to the cooker, WITHOUT chasing cables etc. I thought something suitable must be on the market.

Yes - you need to buy either invisible cable or a magic wand.

Are you sure you know enough to be doing electrical work?

And have you submitted your plans to LABC, describing how you will comply with the Building Regulations, and had approval for the work?

 

[Wadman]

To answer your replies: -
1) The cooker considered is rated at 5.8Kw so "6Kw" allows for good engineering tolerance
2)The cooker is built-in to a full height kitchen unit and the socket is half way up the wall hidden behind this cupboard.
3)The current socket is a double width plate with 2 x 13A non-switched outlets.
4)I have a degree in electronics and started my 'apprenticeship' in the Royal Navy in 1952, and on discharge with De Havilland Aircraft Co. So I think a 230V socket is not beyond me.

Can we start again, I wish to replace the existing double socket with a unit which allows me to hard wire the cooker to supply and also have a socket to supply a microwave unit sited on top of the cooker

 

[ColJack]

so despite your electronice degree, you continually mislead us by calling an oven a cooker?
cooker is oven and hob in one self contained unit..

no need to start again, I've shown you how to do it.. see the pictures above..
change the double back box for a dual back box and fit a single socket and a cooker outlet plate..
this is then not switched since you haven't mentioned an accessible switch above the counter somewhere close by..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The cooker is built-in to a full height kitchen unit and the socket is half way up the wall hidden behind this cupboard.

Does your electronics degree, or your RN or DH apprenticeship tell you what the Wiring Regulations say about that?

I have a degree in electronics and started my 'apprenticeship' in the Royal Navy in 1952, and on discharge with De Havilland Aircraft Co. So I think a 230V socket is not beyond me.

Even though you think there ought to be a way to route a cable from a point beneath the surface of a wall to another point without cutting into the wall?

How relevant are sea and air electronics to carrying out LV installation work in compliance with the regulations and the law?

Can we start again, I wish to replace the existing double socket with a unit which allows me to hard wire the cooker to supply and also have a socket to supply a microwave unit sited on top of the cooker

Something other than ColJack's suggestion you mean?

BTW - you can't put a microwave on top of a cooker, it will get in the way of the pans and will melt and catch fire.

You didn't answer the question about notifying LABC - was that because you don't know that you are required to do that, and that it's illegal not to?

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

Can anyone identify the unit I need please,

certainly, there will be people who can not only identify the unit, but also advise you on why solid objects (like walls) need holes in them for cables to pass through and also advise you on how to do this without breaking the law

look here

http://www.competentperson.co.uk/search.asp

ask to borrow a piece of wire from the competent person and with your degree educated mind, take some time to experiment with getting wires through hole-free walls.