electric hob, what cable do i use?

[sparky24seven]

its the first time ive insalled a electric hob! iv chucked the cabbles in at this time.. i dont know the wattage of the new hob, but there is a 10mm t&e cable from the cu to the 45a double pole cooker point and all ive dun is put a 6mm t&e from the cooker isolator to the new hob point!
i feel this is correct, but im a little in the dark as i never touched a elec hob and i aint got a clue of the kw

 

[ban-all-sheds]

its the first time ive insalled a electric hob! iv chucked the cabbles in at this time.. i dont know the wattage of the new hob, but there is a 10mm t&e cable from the cu to the 45a double pole cooker point and all ive dun is put a 6mm t&e from the cooker isolator to the new hob point!
i feel this is correct, but im a little in the dark as i never touched a elec hob and i aint got a clue of the kw

If you were even remotely qualified to assume the username you have given yourself, you would not have this attitude. You would not connect an appliance without knowing what load it was, and you would not install a 6mm² cable from an isolator supplied by a 10mm² cable.

You're a dangerous charlatan.

 

[dingbat]

Jeez! You sure your username is not sparking24seven? Please, avoid more abuse from those who know what they're talking about by not pretending that you do.

 

[dmccormick]

If the cable from the CU to cooker switch is 10mm2 then it will have a fairly large fuse/MCB associated with it that will allow a large current to flow. If you run a 6mm2 cable from that, then that cable can be supplied with current up to the level of the 10mm2 cable's fuse - that means the 6mm2 cable can be given too much current without the fuse blowing and means it could cause a fire !

 

[plugwash]

what is the power rating of the hob?
what is the fuse protecting the cuircuit?

 

[sparky24seven]

ban-all-sheds and dingbat need not repley!
thanks to the others! but all i was looking for a second opinion, before it was plastered... the 10mm cable is protected by a 32amp fuse which feeds a 2.3kw cooker, and i thought it would be ok to come out of the cooker isolater with my 6mm about 8meters to my hob which ive found out tobe 5.5kw... and yes it will all be protected by the same 32a fuse!
and to those to at the top of the page... my surname is sparkes and the 24 seven comes from my company web site which is parcel delivery!!!! pr*ts

 

[breezer]

There is no need to be RUDE, i blame you for not thinking as to what your user name implies.

Your use name aside, you come on here and you say "iv chucked the cabbles in" which is not very profesional.

and then you say "i aint got a clue of the kw" that is not being very helpful now is it? you could have said i can not see what rating it is.

in general on this forum, if you are polite and helpful you will get an encouraging reply, but if you are not...........

 

[sparky24seven]

thank you for the responce!
if i came accross as rude, that becuse the way they where towards a diyer in the dark!
if there not interested in helping me, and more bothered about making silly remarks, there comments are unwanted! only the ones that can help me safley!!!! i thought i knew a bit abut electrics, but when my friend asked me to install this i thought i would ask 4 a little advice not im better than you responce, cheers

 

[dmccormick]

I have to agree with Breezer - both dingbat and ban-all-sheds were very helpful to me with my problems //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14756
I now have a working RCD in my consumer unit, earthed light switch and know there is a neutral/earth fault on my immersion heater.

For your cooker, 6mm2 T&E cable can take 40A and so if your 10mm2 cable has a 32A fuse you are OK, but for extra safety I think you would be best to fit a fused switch suitable to the 6mm cable between it and the 10mm one.

 

[plugwash]

maybe but in reality its probablly going to be rather impractical and it seems very unlikly that anyone would uprate the breaker unless they were changing the cooker anyway

 

[Damocles]

It is a 32A breaker feeding a 6mm twin cable. If this is clipped to wall it is rated 46A, if hanging in free air 51A, enclosed in a wall 32A.

I do not understand this bit about running a 8m cable from the cooker isolator to the new hob. 8m is a very long kitchen. Do you mean that you are running a new 6mm cable from the CU to a new hob point in the kitchen?

Or do you mean you are connecting both hob and cooker to the same control switch in the kitchen? (fed by the existing 10mm cable)

 

[sparky24seven]

cheers all
yes im running both the hob and cooker of the same 10mm cable with a 32a mcb!
im using a 6mm to extend the hob cable to the cooker/10mm/45a isolator!

since ive posted this, i have took another friends kitchen to bits!!!!! his a unerstanding bloke..
i he has both a elec hob and cooker, these run from the cu, 32a mcb on a 6mm to a 45a cooker iso, then to the cooker and hob which are both below...
so all im doing different is using a 10mm!!!
many thanx

 

[securespark]

Zut Alors!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

cheers all
yes im running both the hob and cooker of the same 10mm cable with a 32a mcb!
im using a 6mm to extend the hob cable to the cooker/10mm/45a isolator!

So if you need 8m of cable to do that, how are you complying with the requirement for the isolation switch to be within 2m of each appliance?

 

[securespark]

Sacre Bleu!