Electric Motor - Any experts?

[SkipFeeney]

Hi All,

I have got an outdoor inflatable jacuzzi. The electric motor that blows the jacuzzi up and creates the bubbles no longer works. It just stopped working the other day and now just makes a click when you switch it on.

I have tried googling the model of the motor to no avail and contacted the manufacturer to no avail. How easy it is to repair the motor or get a replacement from somewhere? Could it be the brushes?

Its a DS Motor 600watt Motor (230v / 50hz). I have taken it apart, please see the pics:

Thanks for your help!

Motor

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

Motor Spinning bit

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

Untitled

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

Brush

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

Untitled

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

Untitled

• SkipFeeney
• 21 May 2011
• 1

 

[Alarm]

Brushes look fine.
Whats the resistance thru the windings?
Fine emery on the rotor and brushes reassemble and try that.

 

[MeldrewsMate]

Are you sure it's the motor at fault? e.g. have you measured the ac voltage at the motor terminals when it's switched on? If there is 240vac you can safely assume there is a motor fault, if not look elsewhere; the click you describe could be the mechanical noise of a relay pulling in. If this relay switches mains to the motor....then it probably isn't working electrically.
Do or have some straightforward fault finding to eliminate other causes before assuming it's the motor.
As posted elsewhere, the motor looks to be in good condition.
I suggest re-assembling it and trying the methodical approach.

MM

 

[matt1e]

Brushes look fine.
Whats the resistance thru the windings?
Fine emery on the rotor and brushes reassemble and try that.

I agree,there's definitly nothing wrong with the brushes
what do you mean by "it clicks"

 

[conny]

External relay seems the probable fault and may be as simple as a loose connection. Check this out first.

As stated, the brushes look fine, in fact a new set would probably only be a fraction longer than those so you can rule them out.
Lightly clamp the motor in a vice, making sure it is secure, then apply the required voltage across the two mains leads. If the motor starts then the problem is elsewhere, if not then you can do the following;

LIGHTLY polish the commutator with GLASS PAPER NOT EMERY.
Emery contains metal grit and will lodge between the segs of the comm causing shorts. After polishing brush the dust away with a small DRY paint brush then a good strong blow of air from your lungs. After assembling make sure the brushes are in full contact with the commutator. Check the ends of the brushes are contoured to the same curve of the commutator, if the ends are flat they need to be 'bedded 'in' by wrapping 1 1/2 turns of smooth glass paper around the commutator, replacing the brushes and manually turning the armature, (the rotating centre part), about a dozen times. Remove the brush and examine to see if it is contoured correctly, If not then repeat until they both are correctly bedded in.
If you want to check the approximate resistance of the windings you will need a digital multi meter. This will give you a rough guide to the resistance as to check it accurately you need specialist equipment. Check for continuity across the two field coils and if present you can check the resistance of each one by taking a reading across the input and output leads of one coil and comparing it with the reading of the other coil. They should be equal, if not the one with the lower reading has shorts present.
If after ruling out external problems the fault remains then a new motor would be cheaper than a repair. Don't forget to check any external/remote capacitors in the motor circuit.

 

[big-all]

really is a bad idea to take something apart when you don't have a clue what your doing
you are much much better to wait from prompts from informed people who suggest the correct course off action rather than pull apart at random and hope to see ------------ well nothing as there's nowt wrong and hope you get it right on reassembly

 

[davelx]

That'd be the Dong Sheng motor group - Google found it for me!

http://dsmotor.com/ProductInfo.aspx?id=22

 

[ericmark]

That looks like a vacuum cleaner motor as used with the larger commercial vacuum cleaners. Each cleaner would have between 1 and 3 units and they were fairly universal.

I converter a concrete press to use those motors rather than using a Pnewvac unit saved on air use.

Have a look Here these look very like your picture.

Likely you can also get all the spares you need.

 

[RF Lighting]

The windings look burnt out in pic 2 to me.

 

[ricicle]

LIGHTLY polish the commutator with GLASS PAPER NOT EMERY.

Ditto: Emery should not be used under any circumstances.

 

[big-all]

definitely don't touch the commutator with anything more abrasive brasso or metal polish and thoroughly clean
use emery on the brushes to deglaze them

 

[conny]

definitely don't touch the commutator with anything more abrasive brasso or metal polish and thoroughly clean
use emery on the brushes to deglaze them

Glass paper only. NO polishes whatsoever.
Remove the glaze by bedding the brushes in with GLASS paper. Don't ever use emery near these motors or they will spark like hell if it gets between the comm bars.

RF, nothing burnt out there mate, its just the enamel colouring of the windings. There are no indications around the slot edges of burning and the comm looks an even shade with no visible spatter or burning.

 

[SkipFeeney]

Thanks for your all replies, just waiting for a friend to lend me his Mulitmeter so i can test the connections - Before I do anything else!

Apolgies for the general ignorance but is the "Windings" the many strands of copper wire? There is what looks like some burning on a section. See the picture below, would this be the fault? If thats the case is it a new motor?

Untitled

• SkipFeeney
• 23 May 2011
• 1

Thanks

 

[Spark123]

Yep, the windings are those pieces of copper wire.
It isn't looking too good for the motor to be honest, if it is the windings then it will probably be more viable to source a new one than to rewind it.
When you get a multimeter stick it on ohms range and measure the resistance across the commutator from one side to the other, then work your way around each pickup pair keeping the multimeter leads on opposite sides.
The resistance of the windings ought to be equal all the way around the motor, if not it is bin fodder.

 

[jj4091]

Not sure if this will help http://www.hottubs2buy.co.uk/hot_tu...ry=airblower&gclid=CNK-7s3T_6gCFYEc4QodfBIbTQ